Balmorist Villahormesisse

Trip Start Apr 19, 2012
1
10
12
Trip End Apr 25, 2012


Loading Map
Map your own trip!
Map Options
Show trip route
Hide lines
shadow
Where I stayed
Hotel Posada del Valle Arriondas
Read my review - 5/5 stars

Flag of Spain  , Asturias,
Monday, April 23, 2012

Hommikusöögi taustaks jagab Nigel mägedes matkamise kogemusi. Pico mägedes on ka varjualused ööbimiseks ja saab ette võtta mitmepäevaseid matku. Kõrghooajal lähevad varjualused aga väga täis ja siis on soovitatav kaasas tassida telki. Alati peab olema tähelepanelik udu ja pilvede suhtes, ükskõik mida ilmateade räägib. Ilm võib nii ranniku lähedal asuvates mägedes muutuda hetkega. Eksole, Hispaanias on hooti hoovihmahoogusid. John vajab matkal mõningaid mugavusi, näiteks pesemisvõimalust ja tualetti. Me Nigeliga esindame tsivilisatsiooni eiramise parteid. Pealegi näeb mäe otsas ööbides tunduvalt rohkem kui ainult päevaks üles minnes. Jõuab kaugemale ka.
Pilvkate on osaline ja mul rannapäev. Sõidan Villahormesesse ja pargin auto sinna. Sõidu ajal tibutab ja raudteejaamas oodates on kõva tuul. Ujuma just ei kipu. Jaamahoone on pisike ja näib igaveseks suletuna, aga rongiajad on infotahvlil. Rongi ootama saabub ka üks vanem daam. Balmorisse on 13 minuti jagu sõitu mööda rannikut. Piletimüüja üritab mulle algul selgeks teha, et sõidan vales suunas, kuid mul õnnestub ta ümber veenda.
Balmorisse jõudes on päike välja ilmunud, linnud vidistavad. Olen ainus väljuja. Balmori on pisike küla, palju maju on müügis või mahajäetud, samas paljudes käib ka elu. Mahajäetud külasid kohtab igal pool, Kreekas, Itaalias, Norras, Albaanias, Hispaanias ja kusagil pole suudetud selle vastu midagi ette võtta. Eestlased vist üritavad oma regionaalarenguga asjatult jalgratast leiutada. Asjamehed võiks vähem reisida mööda pealinnu.
Juhendi järgi orienteerun külast läbi, edasi kulgeb rada plataanisalus. Nigeli juhendid on hämmastavalt täpsed, kui väike segadus La Molinas välja arvata. Põikan Niembru kiriku juurde. Selle taga on surnuaed. Siin on kombeks hauakivile märkida ka lahkunud vanus. Üldiselt elatakse päris vanaks. Kirik on ehitatud kellegi don Carlos de Borbon'i auks ja kannab aastaarvu 1794.
Tee viib kaljurünkadega pikitud Tombara randa, mille ees on aga karjamaa ja mereni ei pääse. Laine pritsib igatahes kõrgele. Ümberringi on lehmad, vasikad, sõnnikulõhn ja kohatine päike.
Ümber künkanuki keerutades satub Torimbia randa, mis hooajal on nudistide päralt. Praegu pole siin kedagi. Rand on ideaalselt poolringikujuline, lained maabuvad vahuste juttidena. Ronin kivile ja veedan rannal oma tund aega. Ilmselt on see üks ilusamaid randu, mida ma kunagi näinud olen. Liiv paistab ülevalt sile nagu peegel, ajupuud rannaserval rivis. Päike libiseb laiguti üle liiva ja vee. Tuul on metsik ja lained kõrged. Ümberringi kasvavad kollaste õitega ogalised põõsad lõhnavad magusalt. Kui ennast viimaks rannast lahti rebin, püüab tuul mind konkreetselt minema puhuda. Hoian kõvasti kaamerast kinni. Lehmarada mäeharjal näitab vaateid rannale ühel pool ja mägedele teisel pool. Metsa vahel on mõnusalt soe. Teisel pool metsa on San Antolin de Bedon'i kabel, lagunenud ja väänkasvudesse kasvanud ja selle juures näsivad rohtu kolm hobust.
Playa de San Antolin on kaetud ümmarguste siledaks lihvitud valgete kividega. Meri on kaljude sisse augud närinud ja pritsib nüüd neist vahutades läbi. Lained purunevad tohutu kõminaga vastu kive ilutulestikuks. Tundub, et algamas on tõus. Püstloodis merre langeval kaljul on lehmade karjamaa, äär elektrikarjusega piiratud, millest tuleb pidevalt kas üle või alt läbi pugeda. Posada del Valle rajad on tähistamata, mistõttu jääb mulje niisama uitamisest. Eksimist pole karta, tuleb hoida merele nii lähedale kui võimalik.
Playa de Gulpiyuri on rannasopp, mille vesi on läbi kivide tungides uuristanud sisuliselt keset karjamaad. Väga omapärane. Viimane rand enne Villahormesisse tagasi jõudmist on playa de Huelgu. Ka see asub jupp maad sisemaal. Läheb pilve, mis annab võimaluse kahjutundeta lahkuda. Villahormesis on pisike kohvik, võtan ühe cafe con leche. Kogu kohvikurahvas on ametis letil turniva jõnglasega, telekast tuleb seebikas.
Tagasiteel hakkab sadama, sobib.
Õhtusöök on jälle suurepärane. See on alati kolmekäiguline, lisaks isutekitaja. Üleeile oli kohalik lammas, eile Ponga mägede siga ja täna vabapidamise kana.
Jutuks tulevad Londoni olümpiamängud. John on kindel, et keegi kasutab üritust kuulsaks saamiseks ja tulemuseks on München või midagi taolist ning ta oleks õnnelikum, kui mängud toimuks ükskõik kus mujal, väljaarvatud nende neetud prantslaste juures. Londini linnavalitsuses möllab korruptsioon samuti nagu Tallinna omas.



During breakfast Nigel shares his experience at hiking in the mountains. In Picos there are also shelters and the possibility to undertake multi-day treks. In high season the shelters fill up and it's recommended to carry own tent. Attention about fog and clouds has to be maintained at all times, no matter what the weather forecast says. The weather can change in minutes becase the mountains are located so close to the sea. Well, the rain in Spain stays mainly in the plain, doesn't it? John needs some comforts during walking, like shower and toilet. Nigel and me represent the no-civilization-party. Besides you see a lot more by staying on the mountains overnight. At get further.
It's partly cloudy and I'm having a beach day. I drive to Villahormes and leave my car there. It rains a bit during me driving and the wind gets quite strong while I wait in the railway station. Doesn't look like going swimming. The station building is small and looks to be closed forever. The timetable is on the wall. Also an older lady arrives to wait for the train. It takes 13 minutes along the coast to Balmori. The conductor at first tries to argue that Balmori is in the other direction but I manage to persuade him he's wrong.
There's sun in Balmori and chatter of birds. I'm the only one going out. Balmori is a small village, a lot of houses a on sale or abandoned. Then again there's life in many of them as well. One can see abandoned villages everywhere, in Greece, in Italy, in Norway, in Spain and nowhere have people been able to do anything against it. Estonians with their regional reform try to invent something new. The big guys should travel less in capital cities.
Following the instruction I make my way through the village, the road continues in a buttonwood grove. The instructions from Nigel are amazingly accurate if the small misunderstanding in La Molina is not counted. Small detour to Niembru church. Behind it is a cemetery. They have the habit here to write the age of the deceased on the grave. Generally poeple have been living to be old. The church was built in honor of someone called Carlos de Borbon and it has the year 1794 written on it.
The road goes to Tombara beach, filled with big rocks. Before beach is a grazing ground and I can't get to the sea. Waves splash high. Around me are cows, calves, smell of dung and some sun.
Around the corner is Torimbia beach that is occupied by nudists in high season. No here's no-one. The beach has an ideal half-circle shape, waves land in foamy stripes. I climb on a rock and spend about an hour on the beach. Possibly one of the most beautiful beaches I've seen. Sand seems to be even like a mirror, driftwood lined up on the edge of the beach. Sun glides over sand and water in patches. Wind is strong and waves high. Around the beach grow thorny bushes with yellow blossoms and smell sweet. If I leave at last the wind literally tries to blow me away. I hang on to the camera. Cow trail on the edge of the hill shows views to the beach on one side and mountains on the other. In the forest it's nice and warm. On the other side of the forest is chapel on San Antolin de Bedon, decayed and grown in weeds. Three horses are grazing nearby.
Playa de San Antolin is covered with round smooth-polished white stones. Sea has chewn holes in the rocks and now water come splashing through them. Waves crash against the rocks with deafening noise like fireworks. Looks like flow is about to start. Up a sheer cliff is a pasture for cows, electric wire guarding the animals every now and then so that I have to keep steping over it or crawling from beneath. Some (or many) of the walks from Posada del Valle are not way-marked and it makes walking feel like just wandering around. No fear of getting lost, I just have to keep as close to the sea a s possible.
Playa de
Gulpiyuri is a small strech of beach that water has created in the middle of pasture coming in through the rocks. Very unique. Last beach before getting back to Villahormes is playa de Huelgu. That also is a bit inland. Sky covers up and gives me the chance to leave without feeling sorry about it. There's a small cafe in Villahormes, I take a cafe con leche. Everybody in the cafe are busy with a small child on the bar, soap opera is on TV.
It starts raining on my way back, suits me.
Diner is wonderful again. It always has three courses plus and appetizer. The day before yesterday was local lamb, yesterday pork from Ponga mountains and today free-running chicken.
We talk about the London Olympics. John is certain that someone will use the opportunity to become famous and the result will be like Munich or something similar. He would be happier if the games would take place somewhere else, except in bloody France. There's corruption in London city government just like in Tallinn.

My Review Of The Place I Stayed



Loading Reviews
Slideshow Report as Spam

Use this image in your site

Copy and paste this html: