Our Last Day in Tuscany

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  Gaeta, Lazio, Italy
Monday, October 18, 2010

Our Thursday mission, should we choose it or not, was laundry and the acquisition of the boss's shoes.Our hope was to complete these tasks and be able to go to Siena in the afternoon but our departure wasn't as timely as hoped.  First stop, shoes.  They had arrived from Umbria and weren't exactly as requested but close enough.  (Due to space shortage in suitcase, they are now Bonnie's underwear drawer-  clean of course).  Upon inquiring about the whereabouts of a laundramat, we were informed that the closest one was in Castellina in Chianti, 11 km  away.  Not far by Huron County standards but in Tuscany at least a half hour drive depending on the number of trucks, tractors you meet and those sightseeing tourists.  We arrived in Castellina at 12:40- bad timing as "siesta"time begins at 1300 and there is no do it yourself laundry. A scrawny, no speaka much English, Italian was the owner-operator and he could not complete the job until 1500.  So after explaining what should and should not be put in the dryer, we paid our 15E expecting the best-folded, ironed and wrapped in parchment. 
We spent the next two hours wandering the streets, having a leisurely lunch and a few photo ops.  At 1505 we returned to our laundry destination only to see our laundry guy (Guido) locking the door and heading for his vehicle.  Run Barbara run!!!  Down the hill we ran waving our arms and yelling.  He opened up and presented us with our laundry.  Both loads dark and light were dried together and dumped into a clear plastic bag.  Not to be believed!!!!  Somewhat embarrassed, we carried it through the streets to our car where we folded it in the back seat.  Crimpolene look it is.  Now 1530, there is no hope for Siena today so we threaded our way back home and prepared for our departure from Il Paggino next morning.  Francesco visited us to make sure our stay had been as expected.  What a gracious host and not hard on the eyes!!!
We departed our Tuscan villa on Friday at 0900 with the itinerary being to visit Siena and then continue on to Gaeta, a coastal town south of Rome to save the long drive to Sorrento in one day. 
We enjoyed Siena, taking in the major sights including the Duomo, Il Campo, dined like queens, and finished off some important shopping.  At 1530 we left Siena, with Victorina (GPS) stating it would take four hours to reach our destination.  Yikes!!!  Not to be deterred we headed out.  The route took us to the Autostrada, Barb drove, and managed competently.  Stopped to refuel south of Roma to the tune of 75 E.  It is now dark and the plot (and stress) thickens.  Departing the Autostrada, with a toll charge of 16.80 E, we headed south to Gaeta.  Good drive and Victorina deposited us at the exact location.  Yeah right?!?  The B&B- Il Vecchio e il mare (The old man and the sea) was no where to be seen.  We parked and Barb set off alone to solicit the help of the locals who spoke little to no English but assisted us by phoning the number of the B&B.  To our rescue arrived a burly, bearded young man in a beat up red Fiat.  We thought he was the pizza delivery man- not our host.  Never judge a book by its cover.  Manuel proved to be a diamond in the rough.  He not only led us to our destination, he tried to help Bonnie park in the narrow street against a stone wall but alas he didn't know how to drive an automatic so Bonnie persevered and finally parked safely.  Now to see our accomodation for the night.  It was scary to say the least.  Manuel led us up and down dark stone staircases.  We arrived at the door and were afraid what lay ahead.  Manual opened the big, heavy wooden door and proudly displayed a beautiful 3 bedroom apartment each with ensuites, fully equipped including breakfast prepared by another gorgeous Italian, Christiano (who we did not meet until Saturday morning) all this for 50 E total. The vista from our balcony was breathtaking.  The lights of Gaeta which is a resort town, shimmered over the Mediterranean.  The only thing missing was supper.  What to do?  We wanted to do no more driving or walking.  Manuel to the rescue.  He agreed to pick up and deliver pizza and water to our home.  We gave him enough Euros to cover the cost and he emphatically refused any kind of tip.  We were so touched by a stranger's warmth and hospitality!!!  Something we have noticed with pleasure in most our Italian acquaintances.  Truly we had found a heavenly oasis after a somewhat stressful day.  Buono notte!!

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The Duomo in Siena

Being fitted for Italian scarf   Comments!

Manuel, our rescuer

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