6 letters for a future ?
Trip Start
Jan 01, 2010
1
41
57
Trip End
Jun 30, 2012
Sihanoukville, Cambodia
Friday, March 25, 2011
It took me some time to realize where I was and what I wanted to do in Cambodia. Since I had planned to spend the first few days in Eastern Cambodia and read about the rest of the country in the meantime, it was quite a surprise to be directly in the capital. During the 2 days I spent there, I did not do much : going to the Vietnamese embassy to make my visa (easy), walking into the main bazaar and visit one of the main symbol of the crimes of the Khmer Rouge, Tuol Sieng Museum, or Security Prison 21 (S-21). I won't say too much about it, like Auschwitz, it is a place where visitors may want to keep their feelings for themselves. I did a miss to the killing field, where the prisoners of S-21 were executed, a little bit too far from downtown.
Then, together with Tal, the Israeli girl I met in the tourist bus 2 days before, we took a bus to Kampot, on the Southern Coast. It is funny to realize that I got lucky twice in the last 10 days : first Helene, and then Tal. I am not looking for anything, last time was in India nearly 4 months ago, but if it must happen, then it has to happen, right? But, I am not sure it is wise to give too much importance in any relationship while traveling. How many people I met in the last 6 years I have been traveling ? 1000, 2000 ? When I say "meet", I mean people whom I discussed with more than just a few minutes. When traveling, and even more when traveling alone, it easy to become very close very fast to fellow travelers : sharing a tuk-tuk ride, being seated together in a bus/train/plane/boat, having lunch, drinking a beer, sharing a room to cut cost (sometimes even a bed !!!), going to a museum and, in countries where there are few tourists, just meeting in the street... There are many opportunities to spend some time with other travelers. Usually it is very intense, in a matter of minutes, you can know all their lives, but it never lasts long. I used to ask for emails or facebook before each of us follows his own way, but I stopped when I realized I never talked to them again. However, if they want mine, I give it with pleasure... So, how many people I am still in contact with after 6 years (of course, not taking into account people met in Porto Alegre, Sao Paulo or San Jose, where I spent many months) ? Less than 10, I would say. And how many of them I met again after and eventually became friends ? 1, maybe 2... 1 over 2.000 ! And, sometimes, I get bored by the same questions : where are you from ? How long have you been traveling...? Now I want to go over it, preferring deeper discussions, like "What do you think about life ?" By the way, I had a very interesting conversation with a German guy I met in the guesthouse in Phnom Penh. He had been traveling for 2 years between Asia and Oceania and were now heading back home. Until something like 4am, many topics were covered : evolution, global warming, extinction of dinosaurs, philosophy... Quite different, but unfortunately not often enough...
So, better not to ask many questions when you meet somebody you like. Carpe Diem... We spent a few days in Kampot, a sleepy village along a river. We had the plan to visit Bokor Hill Station, a ruined resort left behind by the French, but people told us it was not possible anymore to visit it on our own, because people were upgrading the road to allow more tourists to come. In the meantime, it was possible to visit it only on a tour, 13$ / person + 5$ entrance few... No way ! Instead, we rented a tuk-tuk for the day, together with Dany, an Istraeli we bumped into in the streets of Kampot, to drive us around, among caves, villages, lake and salt fields. 10$ for the whole day, meaning 3,33$ per person, much better !
Dany is originally from Russia, and like many Russian Jews in the 80's, his parents immigrated to Israel when he was 6. I can't explain why, but since I started this trip across Asia, it becomes more and more evident I would also eventually spend some time in the Middle East. At first I wanted to go directly to one of the Emirates or in Qatar, because it looks easy to find a job, a matter of weeks, or even just a few days if I am lucky... Now, I am considering other options : Egypt or Israel. I can't believe that less than 2 years ago, I said No to a job in Cairo, and instead chose to fill Excel tables in Paris. It took me one year and a half, 25 countries and 70.861 kms taveled (and still counting) to realize that it was indeed the perfect place for me to live some time...
I would be happy with Cairo, probably more than Dubai or Doha, but Israel slowly makes its way. Just imagine the energy into this place : Jerusalem is holly not less than 3 times ! I don't know if it realizable, I know about immigration procedures in the Emirates, I don't know how complicated it is for Israel. But, since I will go through "The Promised Land" before reaching Egypt and the Gulf, it gives me plenty of time to investigate... I guess that meeting Israeli throughout this journey helped me to make my own opinion, I remember that while trekking in Nepal with Shai, Doron, Zlil and Eynat, we spent hours discussing about the history of this country, but if I feel it that strong, it may also be because part of my own history belongs to this land.
In the days I spent with Tal and Dany, this feeling grew stronger, not only because Tal is lovely, but because she kind of opened my eyes in the way we use to see Israel from Europe. It took her hours of passionate debates, 2 or 3 self-controls to restraint herself from killing me and eventually a few tears (I wish I could feel it as strong as she does), for me to admit that the conflict in the Middle-East is taught and described in the medias as a little bit too much pro-Palestinian. Of course, it does not mean that Europe is against Israel, no doubt than if Iran or Syria one day launches an attack against Israel, and if Israel calls for help, France, on behalf of NATO, together with the UK, the USA, Canada, Germany.... will rush to defend Israel (but so far Israel did not need anybody to defend itself). When she talks about our pro-Palestinian education, Tal is probably right, but the situation might (and I say might) have evolved when Nicolas Sarkozy became President of France. Even if he continues to call for a stop in the colonizations, it looks like he multiplied the signs of affection toward Israel...
So, after these resting days of intense reflection in the tranquil town of Kampot, Tal and me took leave from Dany, who continued his journey to Angkor Wat and Thailand, and we went to Sihanoukville, a beach resort, the 2nd most touristic destination in Cambodia after Angkor. I thought I would have enjoyed it, I don't like beach, but I sometimes look for the ambiance of this touristic places. It was a big disappointment, I really disliked the place at first sight, very expensive for Cambodia, with tuk-tuk scams up and running, and worst of all, many old tourists who came here to have some good time with young Khmer. I wrote previously that I see tourism and the money and progress it brings as a good thing for locals (I guess Thai people have a better life now than 30 years ago), but Sihanoukville appeared to me as evil when I saw this girls, even if adults, hooking up with foreigners and clearly not being comfortable with it... Cambodia is not Thailand, and it would be sad if Cambodia falls into this dark side of tourism...
It took me some time, and it was not easy, but I left alone the next day for a road trip inside Koh Kong province, home to incredible natural sites. I rented a motorbike, for 4$ a day, and left Tal who had bumped into a friend she had met a few months ago in Goa (India). The first day, I drove almost 150 km to Chi Phat, considered as an example of eco-tourism. After 2 downpours and the last 17km on a dirt road, I finallly arrived there at dusk and inquired for lodging. All the guesthouses and home-stays were managed by the eco-tourism project foundation, and prices were high : 3$ for a home-stay. somehow, it is good because the money goes directly to the family, but 3$ was too much for this level of comfort. Being outside the backpackers trail (without one's own motorcycle, it cost 7$ to hire one for the 17km dirt path from the main road), it is mainly visited by travelers with more money, who do not argue with this prices. So, I pitched my tent and went in a local eatery for some a 1$ noodle soup.
I spent a tranquil night, and not to make the same mistake than in Don Det (I did not know how camping would be seen in Cambodia), I packed my tent in the morning, left it at the tourist office and spent the day riding around the countryside and waterfalls. At night, the rain started again (apparently wet season came earlier this year) and as I was waiting into the tourist restaurant (3,5$ a meal !!!) because they had free Wi-fi (yes, free Wi-fi in the middle of nowhere !) before pitching my tent for the 2nd night, one of the woman working there asked me if she could offer me food. I asked a guide nearby, who did speak English, why she was offering food to me, and he told me that they know that some foreigners travel with little money and they want them to be happy in Cambodia. She also offered me to stay for free at her place (cool, it was still raining) and breakfast the next day. For some time, I thought I was back in Iran. When was the last time people did not consider me as a walking wallet ?
I left the village the next day. The treks offered by the association were too expensive for me. Tal told me she would met me there, but you never know with girls, do you ? I drove further in the province. At first I wanted to reach the town of Thma Bang using a dirt path in the countryside, but locals told me it was too dangerous and slippery to do it on my own. I tried anyway, but came back after 15kms, because the path was too difficult. I could have tried to go on, but I know my limits, and if nothing really bad never happened to me, it is not without reason... So, I went back on the main road, who was completed only recently thanks to the money offered by Thailand to built bridges, and reached Thma Bang in the middle afternoon. I spent the rest of the day exploring on foot the countryside around this village, where no tourists go, and decided to try the hospitality of rural people (what happened in Chi Phat may happen again, who knows...). Using signs, I asked a family if I could pitch my tent in their garden, and they immediately invited me into their house for the night. Sweeeeet. Unfortunately, they did not speak English and it looked like they had some problems to understand Khmer (I had learnt some notions in the previous days), or maybe it was my Khmer they did not understand ;). So, after a speechless diner and night, I left early the following day to drive the 250 km back to Sihanoukville. I could have spent days exploring this province, but if I want to be in Hong-Kong by the 5th of May to take my flight to Canada, I need to hurry a little bit, not to have to rush in Vietnam...
When I arrived in Sihanoukville, I bumped into Tal and her friend, who had not left the city. You really never know with girls, actually... I spent the afternoon with them, resting and packing my stuff, and I took the night bus the same day to Siem Reap, and the temples of Angkor, after having made the promise to Tal I will see her again when I'll go to Israel (and I mean it).
After these 4 days in a remote and little visited province of Cambodia, I was ready (and excited) to visit the highlight of this country, Angkor Wat !
