Chang Mai, Thailand
Monday, January 21, 2008
Well where to begin. Brooke, my chef friend from Santa Barbara whom I meet in
Bangkok, and I departed for our first destination together. Train would be the method of travel to Chang Mai and it was sure to be an adventure. We shared our 2nd class coach car with mostly young European back packers and a very interesting group of motorcycle enthusiasts from Singapore, This group, were riding more than 3000 km on a circle tour all across SE Asia. They were a real hoot! Judging from the bikes these guys were riding, they were doing alright in Singapore. The age range was also great to see 27-73. So, needless to say, Brooke and I were soon "coaxed" into joining this boisterous group for a few Singhas. Well after 5 hours of restful drunken sleep we arrived in Chang Mai. Chang Mai, Thailand's second largest city, is quite a marvel. This city is a real crossroads of Thailand. A mix of European sponsored businesses, Hill tribes from the north, University students, and real diverse Euro ex-pat community. It is positioning itself as the jump off point to Burma, Laos and Western China with a large Int'l airport. Let's say that there is a fair amount of money in this town. We had no problem finding accommodation at a great family run guest house. Absolutely wonderful people. What a change from the "push" of
Bangkok and very welcome. We decided to further embrace the Asian experience and to rent 100cc scooters. What a wonderful way to see the countryside and life here. Chang Mai is surrounded by steep hills which add another dimension of natural beauty. So, on our agenda we decided to hit some hot springs about 40 km from CM. Not at all what I've experienced before. It was a sort of family-esqe theme park. We arrived late in the afternoon and obviously missed the crowds. We were able to witness the locals purchase quail eggs ( I love) and boil them in the sulfur spring. Interesting concept. A new take on sous-vide for all you culinarians out there. Well we took a dip and made our way back to CM. Nothing special. The next destination was the Royal Elephant sanctuary. Amazing! I have such a new found reverence for these mighty, intelligent, gentle, graceful, delicate, BEAUTIFUL animals. Honestly, to watch a elephant paint an image of an elephant on a piece of paper using a brush, I couldn't believe it. Check the pictures! Circus are no test of the skills an elephant possesses. To be allowed to come in contact with them, feel safe and powerless at the same time is, I am at a loss for words here! A 6 month old calf came to be touched and explore us. So curious. Gin, I couldn't help think about you through out the day. So, back on subject, the center rescues abused, sick, abandoned and injured elephants, no charge! The King of Thailand maintains the center and it is obvious how much this culture revers and wants to maintain their elephant population. Well after a very stimulating day, we made the way 70 km back to CM. Most of our nights have been spent exploring the local markets and diving into the mystery of street food. We were able to get some real inspiring lessons from the street vendors. Most of the cooking classes we looked into were geared for the novices.. No offense novices. We just didn't see any point in shelling out the Baht to learn about lemongrass, ginger and basil. The weather here has been wonderful, 70s-80s during in the day and chilly nights. Not a cloud in the sky, sorry to everyone shoveling snow now. With the good weather we decided to take a ride and found ourselves a bit off track We were rewarded with a beautiful hike along a scenic creek. We also decided to check out the Hll Tribes Museum. Not large or well funded but very informative. Beautiful displays of indigenous costumes, tools and artifacts. Another real treat we indulged in was a two hour massage given by blind people. Crazy, their ability to get into p[laces I didn't even realize were hurting was awesome. I highly recommend it. Chang Mai has been a fun area to explore and I am considering returning..Well we will see where the road takes me. Now my path leads to Laos, the Mekong and the Golden Triangle. We leave in the morning to Chang Khong, the border crossing to Laos. We plan to spend on night at the border and cross 1-23. Then a two day trip down the Mekong to Luang Brabang. Keep checking in and I'd love to hear some feedback from the people who are reading this and then checking the rest of their e-mails. You all know who you are......So, looking forward to Laos and a bit of rural Asia. I asked the local shaman to say a blessing over me to keep the Malaria away. He says I'm good to go so, I guess it is that easy. Why haven't we adopted this prevention technique in the West? Well at least the incense and candles added a bit of romance to the ceremony. I can send him on a house call if needed. Wait until you see his cure for scabies. You never know when you'll need a little magic. Signing off from Chang Mai.
The adventure continues.................................... ................................and so do I.
