La Purissima

Trip Start Apr 11, 2010
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Trip End May 20, 2010


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Flag of Mexico  , Baja California Sur,
Wednesday, April 28, 2010

I got an early morning start on the Transpeninsular, crossing back over to the Pacific side intending to experience some "Real Baja" for the day, a rugged dirt road loop north from Ciudad Insurgentes that would take me through several isolated old mission settlements in oases with names like La Purissima, San Isidro, and San Miguel de Comundu.

La Purissima and San Ignacio are tiny towns in an arroyo filled with date palms that from the distance looked to me quite oasis villages I've seen in Morocco's Atlas Mountains.  San Miguel was supposed to be 20 miles further on a rough rocky road through undulating uplands.  While the road I took seemed to go in the right direction and was consistent with descriptions in the guidebooks, the roads out of the oasis were all unmarked.  Perhaps they would more appropriately be called tracks than roads, but 20 miles, 25 miles, 30 miles, 35 miles, 40 miles and still no sign of my destination.  And stopping at a Rancho to ask for directions wasn't much of an option since they were all guarded by packs of very mean-looking dogs that chased my car.

After four hours of hellish four-wheeling I suddenly came out at a paved road.  It was the Transpeninsular Highway and I was north of Loreto and nowhere near where I intended to be.  Oh well, it's all part of the Baja experience.  And as I said, it's the journey not the destination.  Yeah right!

I continued south toward evening to Ciudad Constitucion, an agricultural town on a desert plain called the Llano de Magdalena that also happens to be the capital of Baja California Sur state.  Ciudad Constitucion is a modern town spread out linearly along the main road through town that doesn't look all that different from places I've been in West Texas of California's Central Valley.  It's not as pretty as being on the beach, but it works as a stop for the night and I again have an entire RV park and even a very nice pool all to myself.
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