Sea Level through Nice to Antibes
Trip Start
Apr 30, 2004
1
19
34
Trip End
May 09, 2004
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Antibes, France
Tuesday, May 4, 2004
We continue along the coastal road past the airport and luxurious condominiums, parallel to the railway tracks we had travelled along in the opposite direction this very morning.
We soon see signs to Antibes and Juan des Pins and after an incorrect turn or two, finally recognize our hotel from the photos, the Hotel Alexandra, an 19th. Century building surrounded by bland 20th. Century blocks of flats and tourist hotels. It stood out rather like a sore finger, but we loved it (after we had lugged our suitcases up three sets of winding stairs).
http://www.capdeveloppement.com/bouffierfirm/alexandra.htm.
The property labels itself as offering the charm of a XIXth. Century hotel located just 200 mts. from the beach, and famed for its typical Provencal restaurant. We were out of luck with restaurant as it is not open yet, though it is probably lovely on warm summer evenings. The hotel is dated and has seen better days, but is spotlessly clean, with large airy rooms and very friendly service. We clean up and made ready for our expedition to finally attempt a real French experience for dinner.
Juan des Pins and Antibes are two towns that have relentlessly merged together http://www.provenceweb.fr/e/alpmarit/antibes/antibes.htm. Juan des Pins is the modern seaside resort and Antibes is the ancient walled city and harbour. Between the two is the lovely Cap d'Antibes, with its rocky coast, pine forests and glamorous mansions http://www.lecapdantibes.com/. We take the scenic route in the dying light of the day. It's 8:30 and dusk by the time we arrive at the harbour of Antibes. Here we park and enter the old town through the fortified gateway and stroll up Cours Massena. During the day this is the market place and is reputed as the lively spot to be in the evenings, with many bars and sidewalk cafes. Not withstanding, it is a Tuesday out of season in the rain, so the atmosphere is most decidedly dampened. The restaurants seem to offer the same "formula" menus we have seen in all the tourist spots up to now and we are searching for something more je ne sais quoi. We walk through the main square and up and down narrow lanes until at least we see a restaurant that attracts us. It is the custom to display the menu outside the restaurant, so one can make a somewhat intelligent decision prior to entering. Ours has a Franco/Italian menu. It's a "gut" feeling and so we enter and are charmed by the décor and the fact that there seem to be local people here as well. The choice was excellent. We select varied choices between French and Italian cuisine, and kid ourselves that this is true Provençal fare. To top it all, the waitress is from California.
