On the edge of the ocean

Trip Start Nov 16, 2011
1
4
Trip End Dec 25, 2011


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Private residence
(Lima hotels)
What I did

Flag of Peru  ,
Thursday, November 24, 2011

Our last visit is to the residential suburb of Barranco. It's considered the city's most romantic and bohemian district, being the home and working place of many of Peru's leading artists, musicians, designers and photographers. In the 19th-century, it was a very fashionable beach resort for the Limeño aristocracy, and many people used to spend the summer here. The name Barranco (Spanish for cliff) describes its topography, featuring homes and restaurants on and around the cliffs overlooking the blue Pacific Ocean and the Costa Verde Highway.

We stroll down the beautiful walkway to the sea called the Bajada de los Baños, bordered on both sides by grand houses. Crossing over this walkway is the Puente de los Suspiros, or Bridge of Sighs. Tradition says that anyone who makes a wish and crosses the bridge for the first time without taking a breath will have the wish granted. On the far side of the bridge is a park with a statue of Barranco's famous singer and composer, Chabuca Granda
Bridge of Sighs
Bridge of Sighs
.

"Perfect time for a beer" I suggest. It’s almost 11 o’clock. We stop at one restaurant after another. No luck. “We open at 12:30” they all reply. This is night owl zone. It’s late night when the place rocks to the tune of bars, pubs, night clubs and Peñas Criollos (music clubs that offer folkloric shows). Finally a tout takes us to a place half way down the Bajada where they try to persuade us to take an early lunch.

“Just two Cuzqueña beers” we insist.

We are in springtime, and in spite of the desert conditions, colourful blooms are everywhere. Although it doesn’t rain in Lima, the climate is perfect for plants and flowers. All they need is a little water and then it seems that anything will grow anywhere.

We finally end up at Rustica, a restaurant on Barranco Square. Ceviche, chicharrones, tacu-tacu and many other typical Peruvian dishes line each of the two full buffet tables. Andean cuisine such carapulcra and papa a la huancaina also make an appearance. A pitcher of chicha morada, a drink made from purple corn, is on the table to help wash everything down. There is a nice plant filled courtyard and friendly waitresses. The place is packed in spite of the steep charge of S/. 30 (US$ 11) for the all-you-can-eat feast.  
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Comments

Cesar Barroso on Dec 10, 2011 at 07:01PM

Hi, Martin,
I feel like going to Lima after your post. Thank you for sharing.
Cheers,
Cesar

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