At Rio Lagartos
Trip Start
May 18, 2011
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Trip End
May 22, 2011
Next day we are off to Rio Lagartos, a fishing village some 66 miles north of Valladolid. The roads are narrow but excellent condition and within 90 minutes we entering the town. We have been told to look for Diego Nuñez, so sailing past all the touts who wave us down as we drive through, we arrive at the waterfront by La Torreja Restaurant. Here, lo and behold, Diego is waiting. He welcomes us and assigns his son Diego Jr. for the trip to the Flamingo Bio Reserve.
We leave the pier in a fast launch all to ourselves and are soon in the mangrove channels. It seems quite similar to the Florida Everglades with abundant birdlife, but unlike the Everglades, the reptiles here are crocodiles, not alligators. At one point we sail under a shaky wooden bridge, and are surprised to see an 18-wheeler barreling across after we have passed. Diego is a wonderful guide, extremely knowledgeable, amiable and patient. He is in no hurry and neither are we. Other sightseeing launches tear by at full speed while we meander up narrow side waterways observing the wealth of water birds and viewing crocodiles up close.
We finally arrive at a wide expanse of water and see the flamingos. They are all around us in groups wading in the shallow water scooping up fish and water insects in their curved beaks. Diego explains that many of them migrate but there are always family groups here year round. We just can't stop taking photos, they are such beautiful birds. At one point a whole group takes to the air and we wish we had camcorders to record the beauty and grace of these spectacular birds.
We tie up at a small jetty nearby and Diego walks us over the sand to the salt pans. The water is so salty in the artificial lagoons that when we enter the water, we float like corks. We surmise that must be just like the Dead Sea.
As we return to the launch, Diego stops and starts digging in the sand. About one foot down he encounters humidity and starts extracting handfuls of white mud, suggesting that we slather it all over our bodies. This is what is called locally a "Maya mud bath". It’s supposed to be therapeutic, but to be honest the therapy must be in the fun of plastering this white sticky substance all over you, and getting your picture taken. I looked like “The Joker” in the Batman movies. The mud soon dries and we board the launch once more to be taken speedily to an ocean beach where we will be able to wash off the mud.
The solitary beach is lined with rustic palapas and is gorgeous with crystal clear water lapping onto the sugary sand. All along the shore sea birds are wading and they hardly move when we arrive to swim around in the warm water cleaning Maya mud off ourselves.
Diego takes us back to the pier after a really memorable excursion. We change back to street clothes and then decide to have lunch at the bucolic La Torreja Restaurant. The huge thatched roof covers a clean sandy floor. We chose the “Sea Food Platter”. What a remarkable dish! Several types of fish grilled, fried and broiled, seafood tacos, shrimp and squid, decorated with tomato, cucumber and green peppers, topped off with bottles of Dos XX. The plate was so huge we were unable to finish it off.
We leave the pier in a fast launch all to ourselves and are soon in the mangrove channels. It seems quite similar to the Florida Everglades with abundant birdlife, but unlike the Everglades, the reptiles here are crocodiles, not alligators. At one point we sail under a shaky wooden bridge, and are surprised to see an 18-wheeler barreling across after we have passed. Diego is a wonderful guide, extremely knowledgeable, amiable and patient. He is in no hurry and neither are we. Other sightseeing launches tear by at full speed while we meander up narrow side waterways observing the wealth of water birds and viewing crocodiles up close.
We finally arrive at a wide expanse of water and see the flamingos. They are all around us in groups wading in the shallow water scooping up fish and water insects in their curved beaks. Diego explains that many of them migrate but there are always family groups here year round. We just can't stop taking photos, they are such beautiful birds. At one point a whole group takes to the air and we wish we had camcorders to record the beauty and grace of these spectacular birds.
We tie up at a small jetty nearby and Diego walks us over the sand to the salt pans. The water is so salty in the artificial lagoons that when we enter the water, we float like corks. We surmise that must be just like the Dead Sea.
As we return to the launch, Diego stops and starts digging in the sand. About one foot down he encounters humidity and starts extracting handfuls of white mud, suggesting that we slather it all over our bodies. This is what is called locally a "Maya mud bath". It’s supposed to be therapeutic, but to be honest the therapy must be in the fun of plastering this white sticky substance all over you, and getting your picture taken. I looked like “The Joker” in the Batman movies. The mud soon dries and we board the launch once more to be taken speedily to an ocean beach where we will be able to wash off the mud.
The solitary beach is lined with rustic palapas and is gorgeous with crystal clear water lapping onto the sugary sand. All along the shore sea birds are wading and they hardly move when we arrive to swim around in the warm water cleaning Maya mud off ourselves.
Diego takes us back to the pier after a really memorable excursion. We change back to street clothes and then decide to have lunch at the bucolic La Torreja Restaurant. The huge thatched roof covers a clean sandy floor. We chose the “Sea Food Platter”. What a remarkable dish! Several types of fish grilled, fried and broiled, seafood tacos, shrimp and squid, decorated with tomato, cucumber and green peppers, topped off with bottles of Dos XX. The plate was so huge we were unable to finish it off.

