From Miami to Trujillo

Trip Start Apr 21, 2009
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Trip End Apr 28, 2009


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Flag of Peru  ,
Wednesday, April 22, 2009

April
Tue. 21
We depart Miami at 11:30 pm . The aircraft is not full, and in a rare phenomenon for these days, I am able to bag a row of 4 seats, stretching out in pure luxury.  
 
Wed. 22
Arrival is right on time at (gulp) 4:10 am . Suzanne has arranged a transfer service to her aunt's house in San Borja, and the driver will drop me off at my mother-in-law Aida's house on the way.
 
I arrive at their house at 5:30 and knock on the door. It is immediately opened by Aida's brother Telmo, who assures me is always awake and up by 4:00 am! Not so with Aida, who is under the impression I am arriving tomorrow, and is still enjoying her slumber.  Nevertheless Aida gets up and prepares breakfast, and we converse until mid-morning.
 
Later on I convince Telmo to come with me to visit the National Archeological Museum , which I haven't seen since I was living in Lima 35 years ago.
 
Telmo negotiates for a taxi at S/. 5.00 (US$ 1.60). I am always ashamed to bargain for taxis in Peru , as they are so cheap I get the impression that I am exploiting the poor drivers. Nevertheless Peruvians don't see it this way, so I try to keep a low profile. I can be more generous when I'm by myself.  
Regrettably the taxi driver takes us to the wrong museum, the Larco Herrera Museum. I haven't been to this museum in ages either so we decide to stay. We pay the steep S/. 25.00 (US$ 8.00) entry and enjoy the wonderful exhibitions of pre-Columbian art and artifacts. None of these cultures ever invented the written word, but the Moche culture, which was centered around Trujillo, was incredibly adapt with ceramics and the story of their everyday life is clearly demonstrated in their superb artistry. No need for words here. We also visit the gallery of erotic pottery. Even their sex lives are on show for all to see, and we learn there is nothing new in this world. You are even allowed into the storage galleries, where racks and racks of ceramics go from room to room, wall to wall, floor to ceiling. The museum contains around 45,000 pieces. An amazing sight. The museum is located in a lovely old colonial mansion built atop an ancient pyramid. The intimate garden is surrounded by the most colourful display of bougainvillea I have ever seen. We opt to enjoy a coffee and empanada at the attractive restaurant overlooking the garden.

Upon leaving we see a notice advising us to follow the blue line to the National Archeological Museum . We look down and sure enough there is the line painted on the sidewalk. It directs us for about a mile through the residential district of Pueblo Libre, past a gigantic Metro Hypermarket to the City Hall and the well tended plaza. Opposite City Hall is the museum. On checking the price, S/. 11.00 (US$ 3.00), we decide to come back to visit on my return from Trujillo . Much to Telmo's dismay, the taxi ride back is a whopping S/. 6.00 (US$ 1.70).
 
Aida has prepared one of my favourites for lunch, tallarines verdes.
 
Our flight leaves Lima for Trujillo at 8:35 pm , and we are told to be at the airport two hours ahead (ludicrous), so I arrange with a local taxi driver to pick me up at 7:15. It arrives right on time, and I'm at the LAN counter at 7:35 . Suzanne joins me minutes later, and we check in for the 45-minute flight without any problems.
 
Even though it is such a short flight and we have paid so little, we still get a free snack and a drink on the way.
 
Wendy and her fiancée Gustavo are waiting for us at Trujillo Airport . After cramming Suzanne's over-stuffed suitcases into Gustavo's tiny Toyota , we proceed to a restaurant where we enjoy a special Peruvian dish, pollo a la brasa. By now, I'm totally stuffed, and in spite of the comfortable journey from Miami to Lima , in dire need of sleep. I am dropped off at my hotel, and Gustavo promises to come around tomorrow to give me a city tour.
 
The hotel (Hostal Colonial) is basic, clean and extremely well located on the quiet side of town just one block from the Plaza de Armas.   
 
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Where I stayed

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