12600km ... Pakistan

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  Gilgit, Pakistan
Saturday, November 7, 2009

First impression….

Easy customs!!

What a relief after disastrous China… We entered Pakistan via the Kunjerab pass at 12600km from Amsterdam and at a height of 4700m. At the highest point there was a porch with Chinese characters and nothing….No sign with congratulation you made it! No name of the pass, no policemen, no customs, nothing. The only sign that we made it to the top was the fact that the road went down again ;-) That we entered a new country, we notice due the quality of the road. No more asphalt unfortunately so we start a bumpy way down but with a magnificent view of snowy peaks and rocky mountains. The rocks are colorful and shine beautiful in the sun. The next few hours we pass some checkpoints where policemen write down our passport number and where they speak English J. That's a long time ago but I am more than happy to be able to understand the questions they ask. Sost is the first town in Pakistan and it’s customs time…In 15 minutes time they do a medical check (fill in a paper ;-), they check our car and they do the paperwork and put a stamp in our passport! We can hardly belief the easiness and friendliness of the people here…No complaints what so ever. Haha Mister customs asks our relationship and assumes we are mother and daughter. Thinking he makes a joke, I thank him with a smile from ear to ear but it turns out he was serious ;-) hahaha sorry Angelique, I still think it’s a brilliant assumption J At the other side of the road is a hotel and we are welcome to camp on their parking place.

Second impression….

Happy people who like to wave!

The Karakoram Highway (KKH) is worst road we ever drove before. On average we drive about 20km/h on stones and bumps. Every 500m we see construction workers with yellow hats working hard and when we pass they smile and wave at us. Some just stop working and look at us with big eyes and their mouth wide open ;-) We feel very welcome in this country and the mountains keep on being very impressive. Some Chinese worker waves at us and asks us to stop because the tire of his truck sticks out in a strange way. We take him to the next camp where a Pakistani asks us why do you help this Chinese? They obvious aren’t too fond of the Chinese…

Karimabad is the next town we stop to camp. The owner of the hotel is very friendly and we can use the facilities of his hotel for free and are invited to have tea. The Pakistan tea is black tea with creamy milk, very tasty and it reminds me of my grandmother who gave us black tea with milk when we were kids J Next to us is a Mercedes campervan of a German couple. They are in Pakistan already for 3 weeks and have all kinds of handy tips. I know Angelique would like to stay some more days in this town and indeed it’s a nice town, beautiful situated high in the mountains with great views, a great atmosphere and through locals we know the latest news so we know we are totally safe. Maybe some other time.

106km to Gilgit and it takes us 6 hours! Highway? Highway? Damn Karakoram Highway. It’s high in its beautiful mountains indeed but it’s a shitty way! I am impressed by the autumn trees and I could watch them for hours but my bud is sore of all the shaking around and I am glad when we finally reach Gilgit. Gilgit is a dusty and very noisy town with more shops than houses it seems but we stay in a hostel with a nice patio where we can sit in peace and have a breakfast and a tea. We are exhausted of the bad roads and the driving the last days so it’s a good place to relax a bit and for me to give my belly some rest and good food because it’s not happy (understatement). When I dear to go further than 100m from a toilet we take a walk in the center. Shops, places to eat, noise, smoke, people shout, cars horn: it’s a good practice for India I suppose. And I need the public toilet again….I am quiet used to these nowadays so when I saw one I just ran inside, passing a small group of men who look surprised but paying afterwards seemed like the best idea…When I pass them on the way back they still have the same puzzled look on their face. I leave without paying, wondering why on my way back to Angelique. When I turn around I suddenly completely understand: I overlooked quiet a huge sign with gents toilet. Hahaha We have a laugh about it but maybe the men felt embarrassed in this country where men and women are strictly separated…??

We stay 2 days in this hostel called Madina and meet more overlanders, backpackers and cyclists on their way to India. The hot shower they have here is a treat and the food is delicious. The staff is very friendly and helpful, so if you ever think of visiting Pakistan, make them a visit!



They just told me that it’s 40 degrees in Lahore where we will cross the border to India in a few days. I can’t believe it’s true sitting here at approximate 800km from Lahore in 3 sweaters and a blanket around my shoulders because it’s freezing cold….

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distances from Kunjerab pass	colorful trucks on the KKH	inside colorful truck	impressive mountains
construction on the KKH	constructions on the KKH	posing Pakistani on KKH	colorful autumn trees
First campspot in Sost Pakistan   Comments!	Second camp site in Karimabad Pakistan	colorful autumn in Hunza valley   Comments!

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