Off the Beaten Paphos

Trip Start Sep 27, 2013
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Trip End Mar 26, 2014


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Flag of Cyprus  , Paphos,
Friday, December 13, 2013

We left Limassol on a cool Wednesday morning and arrived in Paphos on a similarly cool afternoon. Our first indication that things were a little different in Paphos was the fact that the taxi we took to our hotel was a limousine. The second one was the fact our hotel was closed when the limo dropped us off. The lobby was locked and deserted...the rooms shuttered up, pool drained and a general feeling of postapocalyptic-ness hung over the place...

After banging on doors a while and determining that no one was in fact around, we walked past all the closed down restaurants and shops until we arrived at at the only open hotel on the block and the very nice girl at the front desk kindly called the number on our reservation email and found someone to come open the hotel for us. After all this the room did turn out to be very nice and Mike negotiated us some free wifi. "Sir, wifi in your room will cost an additional five euros." "Nope, I think it will cost no euros." "Um, well maybe two euros?" "How about zero euros?" "Um...ok sir." Mike can be very persuasive when he wants to be!

Once we got checked in we hopped on the local bus and grabbed some lunch and groceries for the week. When we arrived back at the hotel sometime later, we discovered that our key card no longer opened our door, and of course the guy at the front desk had gone back home for the night. Sigh. Back to the hotel down the street we went where the same nice girl called for us again...but this time no one was answering...great. Now back to our hotel to bang on doors some more and see if maybe we can break into our room through the patio. No luck. Mike tried calling again from the grocery store across the street but still no one was answering. (We found out later the lady there kept calling after Mike left until someone did finally pick up, everyone here is super nice!) I tried the reception doors again and then decided we would probably have to smash a window with one of the umbrella stands from the pool area when miraculously the only other guest in the WHOLE hotel complex happened to walk by our room, see us, have the personal cell phone number of the owner AND a cell phone and got him to drive over and let us in. Phewf. What a completely random chance. We had him make us several back up key cards at this point. :)

The next day was much less eventful hotel wise haha. We walked down to the port where we saw a boat that had half sunk in the harbour, a big pink pelican getting head pets outside one of the restaurants (did he work there?), and a large shark shaped boat offering a 7D adventure ride. I don't know what all those D's stood for but it was worth the 4 euros. Then we hit the Kato Paphos Archaeological Site which was the home to the Saranta Kolones Castle ruins, subterranean complexes, the agora and odeon, the "houses" of Dionysos, Aion, Thesus (inventor of the thesis?) and Orpheus. These all had beautifully tiled mosaic floors...most of which were outside and something we walked on...which seemed like something we should not be allowed to do...but what do I know? I'm not an archeologist...
Actually a lot of the site had random unexplained ruins which we found ourselves walking over or through or on. At one point we found ancient catacombs and there was an old mattress shoved into the entrance...

Next day was a slow day as the weather was cold so we just took a walk along the beach and I petted local cats (one of them is missing a foot! But as we saw the tourists here literally buy bags of kibble and just give a handful to each cats they see...Mr. 3-Foot was looking very well fed for a cat with a disability!

Tomorrow we hope to get to the Tomb of the Kings and walk through the down town part of Paphos. We are here until Monday (mostly due to this being a pretty cheap room) and then we head to Nicosia...going through Troodos Massif in the centre of Cyprus on the way. We never did end up renting a car with such cheap intercity travel so at least this way we can see the landscape without the hassle of getting there and finding a place to stay...something that is increasingly difficult during this off season.

Ciao for now!
M&E
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