Until we meet again

  Kathmandu, Nepal
Monday, June 23, 2008

It is hard to write our last Nepal blog - partly because we are now far away, relaxing on a beach, far removed from the our life of the last year, and because it is hard to summarise our experience and convey the intricacies of what it was really like.  Whilst we soon found ourselves settled, life was full of so many different experiences and challenges of living in a developing country and positive and negative aspects of being a foreigner.  Realising that we will never fully understand 'it' - the small things that makes a culture and society, we could only live as observers, wanting at times to fit in and be a greater part of such a vibrant and complex society at other points glad that we had another home to one day return.  There was so much the same yet so much more that was different.  We lived comfortably in our large apartment most of the time.  I loved the little things that made living there so easy; having a little market at the end of the street; receiving a surprise plate of food from our landlords; having corner shops literally on every corner; spending a few dollars on a meal; the little child shyly saying namaste and staring up at the white foreigner; the beauty of the temples; the friendly curiosity of the people; and the feeling you get every time you see the mountains rising above the chaos of Kathmandu.  Small things that will perhaps be the things we miss the most once we settle back home.  There will of course be things we won't miss like living without power and at times water, and the stomach bugs that seemed to never really go away.  I definitely won't miss the traffic, the chaotic driving and disregard for other road users, the pollution that gets in your hair and skin and the smell of the Bagmati River; the sewerage stench rising from the black slime running through the city.  
 

12 months is perhaps enough (for now) but we always knew we could leave.  For many there is no choice but to survive and for many, happiness is sought elsewhere.  It was frustrating to watch the progression of politics and the (lack of) government progress to change.  There is so much potential in Nepal, so many passionate people and a country full of people that want a better life. So many times we asked a child their age and were astounded; a child the size of a 5 or 6 year old would be 10 or 12, the malnutrition so bad.  The majority of places have no or little sanitation, one tap for an entire village with erratic water supply and still be un-safe.  Nepal receives so much donor aid yet progress is still so slow. 
 
Perhaps in some small way we made some tiny difference through our work.  Most people were happy, if not a little bemused, that we wanted to come to Nepal and give something to their country.  Many asked why.  It felt good to be giving something, although the experiences Nepal gave us are far more valuable.  We were often asked if we liked Nepal.  It is hard to not like a country so beautiful, so friendly, with so many natural and historic attractions.  It is quite easy to love it in fact.  There is no denying Nepal has touched us and we will one day be back.    
 
I've posted photos of our trek through Langtang to Goisakunda Lakes, across the Laurabina Pass and down to Shivapuri and Kathmandu as reminder of one of the best experiences Nepal can offer, trekking, and the draw of the Himalaya, which will always keep people (us included) coming back for more.  Enjoy.
 
Postscript
After leaving Nepal we spent a few days constantly being in awe at the wonders of modern technology and the lifestyle in Bangkok.  Shopping centres, women in skirts and food courts gave us a number of culture shocks!  We then headed to Koh Tao on the eastern gulf where we relaxed with some aussie-nepali friends, dived and ate copious amounts of seafood.  We travelled further south and into Malaysia where we spent more time relaxing on a beach in the Perhentians and more diving.  It was rather hard to miss Nepal at this stage.  Finally we headed to KL and one more island - Christmas Island (or more appropriately, Crab Island) - which is an Australian territory but still doesn't quite feel like 'home', although Michael has found Coopers and Kate drank water from the tap (such a luxury), Michael caught a BIG fish (picture attached), and we explored underwater.  Now we are heading home, with Melbourne as the final destination.  At least for a while.