It was apparent then that we were certainly in the middle of nowhere as the price of gas went from $1.49 to $2.05. It was a very long way to go for an alternative supplier! Wally had been looking forward to this part of the journey and while the scenery was not as barren as imagined the remoteness was spectacular. Approx 1200km between Ceduna and Noresman in WA. Not a lot else apart from the roadhouses. Take away the road trains and senior safaris ( older farts than us on tour usually with a caravan) and there wouldn't be much else apart from the equally mad bikers and two cyclists.We made a couple of stops to view the Great Australian Bight where we encountered our first mass of flies. Despite it being 40.5c our crash helmets were the perfect protection from the pesky harlequin fly.Crossing from SA to WA at the border we were stopped and questioned as there is a ban on taking fruit and veggies across state border. Wally sailed through but his terrorist look alike companion was searched!!! Wally didn't feel too guilty when he later discovered he had smuggled in a garlic which in all probability had been planted! Our rest point was Eucla an oasis in the middle of the desert. (A bit M+M to our thinking)This is where the time warp comes in. We checked in at approx 15.30 and when Wally was informed the bar would open at 16.30 Wally said great I will be there once we had unpacked only to be informed we had crossed a time zone and the clocks went back 1 hour 45 minutes. So we arrived nearly before we left
! Extremely hot and tired and smelly. Our body clocks were now confused as we had already lost 30 minutes in Adelaide and it was getting dark early.So to bed at 8 o'clock and we slept through until 0500 and hit the road at 0630. 700km to our next stop at Norseman, including 145Km of Australia's longest piece of straight road. It wasn't really much different to rest of this trip as the odd deviation from straight could hardly be called a bend! We could see in the distance the clouds starting to build and at a Roadhouse a fellow traveller told us we would soon be getting wet. The temperature dropped from 30c to 20c but luckily we missed most of the rain.Jan was disappointed that she didn't see a wild camel on our crossing as there are reportedly 400 000 in the wild.We rolled into Norseman at about 3 having lost another 30 minutes due to time lines and stopping to try and assist a stranded Harley rider with a damaged real wheel bearing. We saw him later on the back of a low loader being dropped off in Norseman.Evelyn in the local info office must deserve a promotion and a contract with Saatchi and Saatchi. After listening to her extolling the virtues of this wonderful town we headed off down the road to our Art Deco hotel. To say this place has seen better days would be polite not just the hotel but the whole town.It's a dump most shops are shut and boarded up. We bought a couple of stamps just as the Post Office was shutting and the lady told us we were her only customers all afternoon.The pub wasn't serving food so our only alternative was the Miner & Workers Club. Not the most salubrious of establishments but the dinner was pretty good and the beer very cold.Wifi doesn't seem to exist in this part of the world as it would be nice to add some of our pics to this blog.Our cabin was comfy enough but wouldn't make too many points with Trip Advisor.With the crippling exchange rate devastating our meagre funds we are off to Kalgoorlie next to try our luck in the gold mines and brothels!
When we return we are off to see the Rocky Horror Show at the Cliffs Pavilion. During the show the audience is encouraged to participate in a dance routine called the time warp.Today we felt we were in a time warp!We knew it would be a warm day when at 8 am the temperature gauge was showing 28c!Another cloudless sky and no wind to worry about. We both had plenty to worry about though and that was dealing with the mossie bites we had picked up during the night. Something had a good meal at our expense during the course of the evening and we were now suffering.We started to suffer too as the temperature rose rapidly as we left Ceduna for our proposed destination of Eucla in the middle of the Nullarbor approx 500km away and the first port of call in Western Australia. The vast wheat fields continued for over 200km, each of the small towns (villages really) on the way served by a vast grain silo complex. Then the landscape changed and before we knew it we were at the Nullarbor Roadhouse.