Namche Bazaar
Trip Start
Jan 15, 2011
1
17
Trip End
May 25, 2011
Namche, Nepal
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
Heading north fom Benkar our trail then crossed over to the east bank of the Dudh Kosi for the first time today on a steel swaying suspension bridge. Up river we could see the remains of an old wooden bridge that was destroyed in floods back in 1985. It wasn't long before we reached Chumoa (2820m E), where the Monjo Khola rises up the western side of the Kusum Kangru. From here it was then a steep climb through the trees to the outskirts of Monjo (2840m E), a pretty village residing beside the Dudh Kosi. Just above Monjo was the enterance check-point for Sagarmatha National Park where I had to present my TIMS Card and pay a the national park entrance fee of 1000 R's.
Leaving the check-point, our trail then dropped to a large granite bluff carved with huge Tibetan mantras before we had to cross back to the west bank of the Dudh Kosi again, on our second steel suspension bridge. Heading north, we stopped at Jorsale (2830m E) for Nepali tea and a sly bar of chocolate I had brought back in Kathmandu. This would be our last settlement before reaching Namche. Above Jorsale, we crossed the river again on yet another suspension bridge, with the remaints of a wooden bridge damaged by floods visible again upstream. Our course then followed the riverbank over gravel and boulders before we were hiking back into the tree-line again, where we then came across the convergance of the Bhote Kosi and Dudh Kosi. Our trail then climbed directly between the spur of these two watercourses and would be a continuous and hard ascent for the next two hours.
My knee seemed to be holding up fine, but as a precaution I had decided to wear both sock sport's straps on each leg. Yesterday's hike had been a breeze, but now I was really beginning to feel the strain again and my legs were on fire. Sonam then pointed out through a gap in the adjoining valley my first view of Everest- it's peak clearly visible above two ridges. Over the course of the next fews days we would be getting gradually closer to this mountain. We then briefly stopped for a rest again at a chair used by porters, where two women were sat selling oranges- the younger taking keen interest in the stretching exercises I had been employing throughout the day.
Fifteen minutes later we were off, and following a dirt track switch-backing through the forest. Within the hour we finally entered the outskirts of Namche Bazzaar (3420 m E), so named because there is a lively market held there every saturday morning as part of a weekly "Haat" (Bazaar). Ascending through the winding tangle of cobbled streets our first halt was at the Police Check-point where I had to present my permit. It was then only another 20 minutes before we arrived at our guesthouse...and this is where it happened: All of a sudden I was overcome by nausea and it felt like the life-force had been sucked out of me. Just walking was a strain. At the time I did not say anything to Sonam and dismissed it as extreme tiredness. I had also been higher up in the Annapurnas and had no headache here, and had felt fine throughout the day, but this was definately altitude sickness. I decided to have something to eat in the hope that it would help me feel better and regain my strength, and ordered garlic chicken and rice which I wolfed down. Sonam had already introduced me to his friend, the Chef, who had been on the same flight as us from Kathmandu.
Sonam then took me for a short hike to the visitor's centre across the next ridge that looked down onto Namche, and this was a struggle and a half for me just to get there. The panoramic view had now been lost to cloud. We later returned back to the lodge where I was able to have a bucket shower only, because the water supply pipes had become frozen. Feeling a little better, I had dinner down in the restaurant but by now had completely lost my appetite and just wanted to go to bed. I was also the only guest staying here. Looking back, all that I can think is that I may have ascended too quickly, but no way was I going to go back down again.
