Cruising down the Mekong

Trip Start May 05, 2005
1
10
31
Trip End Jul 2005


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Where I stayed
Phonetip guesthouse

Flag of Lao Peoples Dem Rep  ,
Monday, May 23, 2005

The cruise down the Mekong was a memorable journey. On our first day, we had to pick up and move our bags a total of 9 times on our way to the boat, afterwhich my back hurt quite a bit. Of course, the seats on the boat were so comfortable that my back didn't hurt for long.... ha! The pictures don't lie... there was barely enough room to sit up straight with your legs bent in front of you. There were about 50 people on the boat, bags and arms and legs squashed into whichever position they could fit. At least it rained for a short time and cooled everything off.

At night, we landed in Pak Beng, a tiny village on the way to Luang Prabang. We stayed at Phonetip Guesthouse, where the proprietor's daughter thought we were 17 years old. We walked through the town in about 5 minutes and ate at a little house by candlelight: pork laap and papaya salad. Quite yummy! I love laap, did I mention that? Laap is a minced meat salad, with green beans, mint, cilantro, green onion, lemongrass, and lots of other great stuff. You can make it with fish, pork, beef, chicken, or tofu. Fish is the best. After dinner, we met a group of laotian teenage boys in the street, singing songs and passing around a bottle of lao-lao, the local whiskey. We had a couple of sips and went to bed early, but not before we chased out a spider from our room: our first spider-as-big-as-your-hand! It walked out on its own quite happily.

The second day of the boat trip was a bit better. The boat was larger, so we were all able to stretch out and get a little more comfortable. It was hotter too, though, without rain. Once again, the scenery was amazing: rocks, jungle, river life, cows, and a few elephants. After about 7 hours, we pulled in to the small landing at Luang Prabang, and got a beautiful little guesthouse next to the river, with a balcony: View Khem Kong Guesthouse. It was a tad luxurious ($15 a night!) but it has a nice bathroom and is in a pretty wooden house in a great location near the Royal Palace.

-Laurel
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Comments

cbfx
cbfx on

Mekong river crossing
Wow, what a trip. Crowded boats and move your stuff 9 times. Sounds more like the navy. I have 2 of your packages so far. keep meeting those teen boys - but don't bring one home - no room here.
check up on you again soon. DA

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