Farewell to the Dingle-Bells
Trip Start
Nov 06, 2003
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Trip End
Jan 24, 2004
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Wellington, New Zealand
Sunday, January 11, 2004
We travel north in reluctant silence for some time, adjusting to the loss of friends and the tired pace of the road. We retrace the route Bridget navigated on Christmas Eve so long ago, recognising the place we stopped to eat forgettable food, the cold gas station that seemed magically pulled out of a winter night, and certain vistas and landmarks.
Bridget's favourite spot, where the Rangitikei River has carved a valley out of the chalk white cliffs, takes on a lustrous, honeyed glow in the afternoon light. We drive on through country of solitary trees on picture-perfect hills.
Free of the rain that tried to wash us from Christmas, we take in the snowcapped views of Mt. Ruapehu that dominate the desert road of the central plain. We sneak into a military training ground to take pictures, only to find out later it was used for the battle before the Gates of the Morranon in "The Return of the King" -- in fact many Mordor scenes were shot around here. Many hours ahead of our previous night-time descent to Lake Taupo, we actually see NZ's largest lake. All along its mottled eastern shore campers are bathing in the late afternoon sun.
After dinner, we set up camp at a free site beside the Waikato River. It's a lovely spot, but Emma is appalled by the dark, smelly outhouse -- the only amenity. We gather inside the tent as the day gathers its blue evening coat about its shoulders. We recollect all the silly expressions of Sasha and Jules and the kindness of Bridget and Pete until bedtime. In the end, I opt to spend the night outside under the stars.
