The Longest Day, part 1: Cockle Bay

Trip Start Nov 06, 2003

Trip End Jan 24, 2004

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Flag of Australia Sydney, Australia
Saturday, January 17, 2004

An early start to a sunny day. Julie and I leave Emma to sleep, and walk south with the baby along Pyrmont Street, past the arched tangles of overpasses and rail lines that convey commuters into the Central Business District (CBD). Not the most attractive walk of my life. The two-hour time difference between here and New Zealand has woken us up early enough to catch a rare glimpse of the city between shifts. Clubbers stumble by us on their way home; the occasional shopkeeper sweeps leaves from the sidewalk.

We reach Cockle Bay's gathering of gardens and complexes from the west side of the harbour this time, then beyond that Chinatown where closed doors and evacuated streets bellie the bustle we find inside Paddy's Markets. Although the main doors of this complex are closed, a side entrance unfolds to rows of produce vendors and fish mongers. The bulk of the market -- the cornucopia of clothes, collectibles and electronics -- is closed until 8am, so we price shop plump green grapes, sweet oranges from Queensland, flatbread from Turkish ovens and a picnic of cheeses and olives.

Our way back wends past some tired brick facades in need of a facelift, a street of lovely old Spanish restaurants and the dragon-spined wall of the Chinese Gardens. We trace the waterfront to the hotel through waterparks, the Latino Festival stage near Harbourside and the National Maritime Museum.

Emma wakes up as we come in the door at 9:30 am. We scoop up the Saturday paper and our collection of magazines, then plan our week at the hotel buffet breakfast.

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