Remedios

Trip Start Jan 16, 2007
1
18
51
Trip End Mar 01, 2007


Loading Map
Map Options
Show trip route
Hide lines
shadow
Where I stayed

Flag of Cuba  ,
Wednesday, January 31, 2007

The perfect place to decipher the rhythms of Cuba. Our casa is right on the corner of a thoroughfare in this sleepy town, and our huge hinged doors open up a whole side of the living room to the street.

By 6:30 a.m. life is beginning to trickle past -- pedlars, bici-taxis, parents peddling kids to school -- and it never really stops all day. Lucy and I peek out through the iron bars of our tourist cage and feel Cuba wash over us.

Bicycles and horse-drawn carts form the main transport options in Remedios (along with walking, of course). Up to four people at a time wheel past on old bikes. Cuba imported thousands of bikes from China last decade and is now producing its own lighter versions, but most of those passing are beautiful curvaceous chariots from the middle of the last century. Besides the usual doubling and tripling on handlebars and rat traps, Cubans have lots of improvised child seats. Kids dangle from the centre bar, the back wheel, the front handlebars. The variety and ingenuity is great.

Our lodgings are the most beautiful I've seen; I thought we were stopping at a museum when Hermes dropped us off last night. We have our own vestibule, living room, dining room, bathroom and bedroom, all with beautiful tiled floors and ceilings that stretch over 20 feet above us. As the Lonely Planet says, this is a new casa run by "nice young hosts" Frank and Arelys. We share an inner courtyard with their family and their birds and turtle. Cubans seem slightly pet obsessed. We don't enter a single home during our stay that doesn`t have fish, birds, turtles or some other animal roaming about.

The worst thing I can say about "Casa Colonial" is that stone is a poor
sound proofer. In the middle of the night it feels like a big freight
train goes past on the other side of the wall. Trucks transport goods
between Santa Clara and the resort areas out on the coast. They do it
all night long, and the stone streets and walls of this colonial town
shake and roar with their passing, like some harbinger of the future.
Slideshow Report as Spam

Use this image in your site

Copy and paste this html: