Birthdays and Being Lazy

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  Kalimpong, West Bengal, India
Saturday, December 19, 2009

Today two special people in our lives celebrate their birthdays.  Our darling Lucia Tomeo turns one ...  I wonder about all the new things my beautiful God-daughter has been able to do since we last had her over to spend the day. We can just picture her cute dimpled smiles and the curls that bob around on her head as she goes about bringing joy to everyone she meets. Our other darling celebrating her birthday today is Genevieve Pang.  Gen and I went to school together and then later Alan and Gen worked together for a number of years.  Gen is Donny's Godmother with whom we had lost touch for year and years. And then, through the miracle of Facebook, only recently reconnected.  Donny has just spent a week under the loving care of his Godma and her family and by all accounts it looks like he was spoilt rotten and the four of them have gotten along famously.  Happy birthday to our darling girls ... Gen and Cia - we love you both so very much.

This morning we awoke to the crows of several roosters and what sounded like possums up on the roof of our cottage.  We have been sleeping for about ten hours each night lately and are both feeling so relaxed and somewhat lazy.  Thankfully the hotel, its garden and staff encourage the not wanting to do very much but to merely soak in the wonderful ambience and climate.

We had a very fulfilling breakfast out on the lawn beside a massive rose tree.  Yes, it was a tree.  It looked and smelt like Iceberg roses, but I have never seen such a massive specimen before.  The garden is beautifully landscaped in an old-fashioned English style with views over the Himalayas that are stupendous - if it wasn't for the mist and cloud cover.  We've been told that they are waiting for rain and that as soon as it falls everthing clears once again.  We have a further six days in the mountains so let's hope it will rain soon.

After breakfast we took a stroll into the dusty and very congested town-centre and the Saturday markets.  My goodness.  It was like being back in Singapore in the 60's and roaming the markets of Siglap or Seng Lee.  Jam-packed with people, stalls, noise, smells and hustle and bustle.  It went on and on through very narrow streets ... the ground was wet with grime and other unidentified fluids!  Donny, you would have not liked it one bit.  Remember what it was like at the Anjuna Markets of Goa where all of the stall holders hassled everyone who walked past?  Well, this was the exact opposite - there was plain disinterest on the faces of all the stall holders!  It reminded me of the looks we used to get from the salesgirls at the Chinese emporiums and Tay Ban Guan back in the 60's and 70's.  Tak kuasak! Roughly translated ... "I cannot be bothered so don't ask me anything."

I guess what has struck me about Kalimpong is how lacking in the modern amenities it is.  Yes there is electricity but not every stall is connected to power.  Last night, we passed so many of them illuminated by candles and small kerosene lamps.  I felt heavy thinking how much we take our water and electrical supplies so for granted.  Water is also very scarce here.  Some places have only buckets for you to wash your hands and the shower in our bathroom runs on a trickle.  But at least it is hot and we have a lovely warm heater in by our bed.

The place we had dinner at is supposed to be the pick from the Lonely Planet Guide.  Okay ... this time I have to say they got it so wrong.  The poorly handpainted sign outside across the walls of the second floor of the building should have warned us off. King Thai Restaurant and Bar. We had difficulty finding the entrance but should have just followed the blaring music coming from above.  The decor that greeted us brought us amusement as it was mainly Chinese in style with dragons and red lanterns, but "modernised" by posters of John Lennon, Bob Marley, Che Guevera, Elvis Presley and Marilyn Monroe. I guess they all live on in Kalimpong.

Just after we had ordered our dinner, the resident musician turned up with his guitar and began his sound-check OVER the blaring music.  Alan started to laugh until I kicked him under the table. The food arrived in what I thought was reasonable time and maybe it was just that I was so busy checking out all the decor in the poor light apart from the flashing disco ball reflections.  Suddenly the resident musician began strumming his guitar very loudly and purposefully. He was accompanied by a drum machine of sorts. He opened his set with a song from Om Shanti Om. I immediately said to Alan "Don't you dare laugh ..."  although this rendition was infinitely more upbeat than in the movie where it was a sad song.  Poor guy, it was really bad.  We did however clap and tried to show some support because we know how tough some gigs can be.  Oh and yes ... the food was equally unpallatable.  Oily, floury, over spiced and salted with Masuman Veggies that was so unlike anything either of us have ever tried before - we left the dish uneaten.

Tomorrow morning, bright and early we leave this lovely hotel and head to Darjeeling where we will spend the next six nights, including Christmas.  I hope internet connections are good there as I really have to tell you more stories about some of the things, people and food we've encountered in places like Bangalore & Kolkata where I did not spend much time on-line.

Love and kisses
Stay present
Maya







 

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