We'll have nun of that here...

Trip Start Aug 09, 2007
1
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Trip End Jan 20, 2008


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Flag of Peru  ,
Monday, September 24, 2007

Slowly dropping in altitude. Not by much - still in the Andes - but noticably. Arequipa is about 1000m below Puno - still over 2500m above sea level. An interesting journey - the landscape became progressively more arid, until we completely abandoned the green fields with llamas and alpacas grazing, and were surrounded by yellow mountains, dotted with plants that can survive without much water.
Arequipa is a very pleasant city. Lots of white buildings, made from Silla - the local volcanic rock. A large central square with lots of colonial-style arched buildings and a cathedral surrounding a fountain in the middle. The cathedral reminds me, for some reason, of Buckingham Palace.
Prior to coming here, however, I visited Sillustani. A burial site. Dating back to pre-Inca times. Initially, it was built by the Collas. They were conquered by the Incas, who continued using the site, but with their architecture. The theme remains constant, however. Towers. Towers of various styles, heights and quality, but towers. All with a small door in the eastern wall, to allow the first light of the sun to come in. Not that the dead inhabitants really need sunlight, but still. The mythology remains constant. The towers are impressive, set high on a hill, surrounded by lagoons - about 100m higher than Lake Titicata, although far smaller.
Dead Incas. A neat link to Arequipa, where we can find the mumified remains of "Juanita" - the so-called Ice Princess. The Incas enjoyed a spot of child sacrifice, every now and again. When the weather changed. When there was an earthquake. When the volcano blew off. Probably when there was an "R" in the month, just to be sure. You can see her body in a museum. An interesting exhibition. It starts with a video of the expedition that discovered her remains. And provides interesting viewing, right up until the moment when the idiot narrator says "She believed that she was doing her duty for her people and going to live with her gods - and who could doubt her?" Well, me, for a start. Call me a hypermodernist, but I have yet to see evidence that child murder can bring about a change in the weather (and believe me, there are some children I think this could be profitably tested upon...) Gah. Cultural relativism gone mad. That's what it is. If the Incas really wanted to change the climate, they should have tried burning more fossil fuels.
Also in Arequipa is the impressive Convent of Santa Catalina. Dubbed a "city within a city", it was built in the 16th century, and still houses around 30 nuns today. According to my lonely planet (but more or less skipped over in the historical section of the convent), for the first three centuries the nuns lived a fairly hedonistic lifestyle, reflecting their status as daughters of the wealthiest families of Arequipa. This only stopped when a strict Dominican came to take charge (backed, according to what information there was in the convent, by the bishop of the time). Debauched nuns. Marvellous. Very Ken Russell. Wasn't he on Celebrity Big Brother? So there goes another reputation. Still, Gothic was a good film. As was Lair Of The White Worm (another Bram Stoker sexually repressed Victorian fantasy). I believe I have it on video. Somewhere. Of particular interest in the convent was the glass case displaying the barbed wire clothing and whips that the nuns used to use on themselves. And then they tried to tell us they weren't mad. Apparently the convent was built because of a massive need for it. You can imagine the Arequipeñas: "What this city really needs is a building full of self-mutilating hysterical women". And I'm not even going to get onto Sister Aña de Los Angeles Monteguado, beatified by Pope John Paul II, owing to her predictive powers (I thought the bible outlawed that?) and ability to cure cancer. Sort of a cross between Mystic Meg and chemotherapy.
Still, the convent is very impressive - built, as expected, from silla stone, it is a maze of twisting streets and courtyards, cloisters, fountains and chapels. Well worth a visit.
Also ubiquitous around town is Andean music. Last night, over a rather disappointing rocotto rellano (I'm not even sure it was a chilli, rather than a red pepper), I heard a CD of some of the most dull pipes imaginable. Boring Andean style covers of MOR "favourites" - Rod Stewart's "Sailing", The Scorpion's "Wind of Change" and, possibly with a hint of irony, given their popularisation of "El Condor Pasa", Simon And Garfunkle's "Sound Of Silence". Pah. Dull. The bland leading the bland. Compare and contrast. The night before, performing live, Andean music played with feeling and zest, culminating in a version of "My Way" that couldn't have been more in-your-face if Old Brown Eyes himself, Sid Vicious, had come back from the dead to spit it out.
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Comments

tolstoy
tolstoy on

Elvis
Glad to see your still having fun. I recently read that in 1977 when Elvis died, there were an estimated 200 Elvis tribute bands, and that in 2007 there are an estimated 200 000. The author concluded that 'if this trend continues, by 2060 one in four of us will be an Elvis impersonator'.

Anyway, I deliberately misspelled 'you're' in the first sentence just to annoy you. You might be thousands of miles away, but that doesn't mean I'm not going to get on your nerves.

derekjws
derekjws on

Who is that bloke who keeps getting in the way of
oh, and more musical references please, otherwise keep up the informative and amusing mix you have got going..

derekjws
derekjws on

short title bits are rubbish
if you couldnt guess, it was meant to say 'in front of the pretty pictures'.

still, at least you will get excited to have had a couple of comments.....sorry they are of such poor quality..

simey
simey on

Kuddly Ken
Didn't Kenneth R walk out of Celeb Big Brother saying it was crap? Reputation intact, methinks.

Keep up the good work. More pictures of cats please.

timbrown
timbrown on

Hypermodernist
Matt you are a well known hypermodernist and I've even heard it claimed that you're a scientific uber-rationalist zealot. I disagreed and said that you were well balanced and always heard both sides of the argument.

However I must disagree with you on the issue of child sacrifice. Here in north of england it has been common practice to offer up a pre-schooler to the old gods every spring - to ensure good harvests and good football results. And it works. Being a hyerrationalist you'll want proof - so here it is. We neglected the traditional rites this year and what happened? I'll tell you what happened Professor Salts. Three months of rain and Leeds Utd went into administration. Leeds City Council has stated that the offending official has been removed and we will be returning to child sacfrices next year. I blame Gordon Brown/David Cameroon/The undead chap who runs the liberals.

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