North Korea Military Adventure Park

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Flag of Korea Rep.  , Seoul-t'ukpyolsi,
Saturday, March 20, 2010

I'm on my way back from the demilitarized zone (DMZ) – about 60km north of Seoul. What we witnessed over the last half day was a truly bizarre scene. The grey misty weather set the stage for a somber place where over 6 million people died during the Korean War and the subsequent North-South conflict. However, the tour soon turned into some form of military adventure park attraction. Busloads of tourists guided by UN military officers are shown around the DMZ daily. There are different stops where US Army Information officers brief visitors on the current situation. A Korean officer guides you through a 300m long infiltration tunnel 80m underneath the ground that the south discovered in the 70s. At the end, they drop you off at a gift shop where you can buy military uniforms and DMZ-Tshirts.




It’s easy to forget that you are visiting one of the world’s hot spots: some 500.000 soldiers are stationed in the area and you are under surveillance of North Korean soldiers. The most surreal place was a Checkpoint Charly like border (see pic). We could see North Korean soldiers and went into the conference room right on the border which serves as the venue for the sporadic talks between the north and south. In the room, the South Korea and US Flag are shielded behind safety glass (because at the last talk North Koreans polished their boots and South Korean soldiers can approach the door to North Korea only in pairs for the risk that they may be dragged into northern territory.


Despite all this there seems to be a firm belief that the reunification is just around the corner. There actually is a Ministry of Reunification, and for most people it is a question of when not if. I don’t want to be the grumpy German here who takes away the punch bowl from the pre-reunification party, but what exactly is this optimism based on? After all, people in North Korea were exposed to 60 years of communist propaganda and income in the south is 30 (!) times as high as in the north. The comparison with divided Germany is not valid – people in East Germany had much more civil liberties and access to information of western media. I can’t see how to unify a militaristic communist authoritarian regime in dire poverty and a modern, western-oriented capitalist society. Interestingly, the younger generation is much less enthusiastic about the prospect of reunifying – maybe because they know who will have to foot the bill. But then again, few predicted the reunification of Germany – I’d be happy if history would prove me wrong.
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