First Day

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Where I stayed

Flag of Ghana  ,
Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Reading day by the blue pool.

The best book on the history of Elmina seems to be one by a writer called Ato Ashun. I'm not sure it’s the best researched history (he writes "hundreds of millions of Africans were taken in the transatlantic slave trade" – whereas most estimates, which are still shocking of course, are that ten million were captured & sold, and another ten million died as a direct result of the trade – not  “hundreds of millions"), but it’s written passionately and with desperate sadness.

The last chapter is a sighing plea for Africans to shake off the legacy of colonialism and look forward to something better, which is movingly written.
I'd like to meet Ato, but neither Ben nor Suzi who run the hotel have come across him. I write him an email, but I have a feeling the email address I have for him is rather old.

Curiously, the pool has the 'Adinkra' hand-cuffs symbol painted on the its bottom. What does this mean? I will find out.

The night comes and suddenly I'm hungry.
The hotel’s restaurant is just a few yards from the beach-edge. It being quite open, you simply face the dark sea and the crashing waves as you take a drink, or savour your meal. Only, tonight it is not dark on the horizon – a long necklace of orange lights pricks the blackness: the fishing boats are out, so the fishermen must believe the seas will be propitious tonight.
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