Day 122: December 14, 2007 Tierra del Fuego NP

  Ushuaia, Argentina
Friday, December 14, 2007

Day 122: December 14, 2007 Ushuaia: Tierra del Fuego National Park

I had wondered how I would feel on this day ever since arriving in Argentina, in August. At the end of the day, I would have to say good-bye to Elena-and Elise and Shirl-and put them on a plane to Buenos Aires. Elena and I have really gotten to know each other well: something that a broken marriage does not always permit. I've enjoyed watching her blossom into a young woman on this trip. I hope we can soon have other opportunities like this in the near future. I'm thinking Iceland in 2009.

The day was overcast and breezy but patches of blue were showing through by the time breakfast was over. We got in the car and drove about 10 km west of town to the entrance to Tierra del Fuego National Park, passing the world's southernmost golf course. Earlier this year I passed one of the northernmost, if not the northernmost golf course in the world, in northern Iceland. Had I been a golfer, I would have had to stop and play a round but I am not.

We drove to Lapataia Bay up against the Chilean border where Ruta 3 ends after starting in Buenos Aires more than 3000 km away. I pointed to the place where we released some of Dottie Stout's ashes into the bay in 2003. Next, we went to the campground at Lago Roca where I camped with the GSA students in 2005. The clouds were clearing nicely. The skipping stones were not nearly as good as they had been the day before. We stopped for coffee at the campground coffee shop and then went into the gift shop where Elise bought a nice leather belt at a very reasonable price. Rabbits and hawks were everywhere in the campground.

Driving back to Ushuaia, we passed a large U-shaped valley that cuts the mountains just east of the park, beyond the golf course. We had lunch at another place on the waterfront, Tante Nina. I believe I ate there once in the past. We all had pasta which was, well, pasta.

Before returning to the hotel, we went to an internet place to get Elena's flight information. Once that was accomplished, we returned to the hotel and the three women finished their packing. We loaded everything into the car and I drove them to the airport which was under a beautiful clear sky. Check-in was a breeze. We paid the departure tax and then had a soda while the long line for security shrank to nothing. At 6:30 we said our good-byes and the three of them walked through security for their 7:38 flight, each waving to me before they stepped around the corner out of sight. I felt rather hollow. It has been a great two weeks-a great three and a half months. Suddenly, these chapters of the trip were over.

I drove back to the hotel and arranged for Localiza to come up and pick up the car. Martín arrived about 45 minutes later and took me downtown with him. I could see the plane at the airport. It looked like they were getting off a little late. I went to an internet place and told my father and Liz that the girls were gone. I ended up spending a couple of hours there, attending to forgotten correspondence and accounting. I also read Gore's acceptance speech at the Nobel Peace Prize ceremony.

It was 10:45 when I finished. I walked down the street to the Restaurante El Turco, known for its pizza and good prices. I ate there once before. It was packed but I got a table pretty quickly and was out of there within an hour. It took a while to find a cab but I was back at the hotel at 12:30. I watched some American TV before dozing off. I got up at 3:30 and went to bed properly.