Filipino final farewells
Trip Start
Aug 18, 2011
1
55
61
Trip End
Oct 08, 2012
Manila, Luzon, Philippines
Saturday, January 21, 2012
If this wasn't a very special day, I’ll never know what is!!
I was up at 5am, making sure I was ready for getting my permit for a truly memorable activity – swimming with HUGE whale sharks!!! The amazingly clear waters directly next to Marilyn’s Guesthouse (my digs and lovely friends running it) were the site of many really huge whale sharks, which swim around the waters all morning. The barangay (district/region) is trying to conserve the numbers of tourists taking part in this amazing activity, by imposing an alleged restriction of visitors. With only approx 20 local boats and boatmen, boats begin to leave the shore at approx 6.15 in the morning and stop plying the waters at 1pm. Three boatmen only are allowed to feed the whale sharks, but none of the others have any contact at all. And they certainly don’t feed them many fish, as there are shoals of them actually swimming alongside the whales – some a fair size!!
I went along to get my permit at 6am (the 'office’ opening time – a table on the beach) , where a guy who took his job rightly seriously, read from a laminated list of rules when in the water with these amazing creatures. Basically, not swimming within 2 metres, not getting too near their mouths or tails and all the other expected norms. We returned to the boat, where we were rowed no more than 50 – 100 metres from the shore and suddenly became aware of the slow and graceful movement of these gargantuan mammals gliding thro’ the water. For whatever reason, they’re very gentle and extremely docile, but none of us (others in other boats) could actually believe what we were seeing!! These huge creatures, were 15 – 25ft long, were grey with white spots over their entire upper body, with pure silk-like white bellies. They were simply breathtaking!!!
Their mouths were incredibly wide and they slowly opened and closed their mouths as they either got fish or due to expectation, but they just stayed by the boats!!! I’d chosen not to snorkel but to photograph them from above (no underwater camera), but as time went on, I really just wanted to get in the water and actually see all of them from below. I started snapping what I could, as it was difficult with them primarily being underwater and all moving around, but it wasn’t long before the boatmen were telling us that there were 9 whale sharks all around us!! It’s hard to realise, because this was just such a surreal experience!! One girl quickly got back in her boat, because she found the size of them just a bit too intimidating.
Again, visitors are limited to 30 minutes in the water (which is just about right for the amount of people and boatmen available), which was a great amount of time to see these absolutely beautiful animals. But for me, it just wasn’t enough and I wanted to go back and snorkel with them. So the owner of the guesthouse said I didn’t need to get another permit, providing I was happy to simply pay the boatman. You’re never going to believe it, but the total cost of the first trip was 300 pesos (just over £4) and the second one cost me 200 pesos (just under £3). I’ve never just stayed so still in the water and gasped at the sheer magnificence and size of something so special! I followed some of the whale sharks as they so elegantly glided thro’ the water, but one gave me such a scare, when I was suddenly aware that it was swimming along just underneath me!! It really put the fear of God in me and I backed away so quickly!! I reckon I’ve seen too many Jaws films, where arms and legs are suddenly grabbed as a snack!!! I loved it, loved it, loved it and loved it more. Amazingly special!
Having now spent an hour in the water (above and below) with these very special sharks, those of us who had already been in the water were just totally gobsmacked by the experience, as it was so much bigger and better than anything we could have imagined. And of course, with many people shooting straight off after the swim, it was the only time for us to compare and contrast our experiences. There was no other word for it all – just utterly magical!!!
The ladies at the digs told me to be quiet and placed an egg and onion omelette in front of me, with several slices of bread and a big cup of coffee. They said I needed filling up with all the activities I was planning to do that day!!! I had plenty of time, because my bag was already packed and I was taking the ferry at 9.30am to Sumilon Island Bluewater Beach Resort. The resort is located on the very tranquil Sumilon Island, on the south-eastern tip of Cebu and fairly close to Dumaguette, from where I’d just travelled. It’s 24 hectares small and is the first marine protected area in the Philippines altho’ it was previously made a fish sanctuary in 1974. There are black top sharks here and a wealth of myriad fish and corals. Essentially, it was just offering so much for £20, I really couldn’t refuse!!
This was a very expensive island retreat (for Filipinos) that offered day visitors the use of their facilities and lunch. The weather and water here in this area (the island was opposite the Oslob coastline) were quite simply fantastic and I just wanted to have one day of indulging myself in all the things I love to do.
After getting the boat over, I first decided to walk around the entire island, over porous and craggy lava rock, stony inner paths and a small section of pebbled way. Full of trees and beautiful varying aquamarine waters, the small pristine white sand beach looked like a slice of heaven in the hot, balmy atmosphere. There wasn’t a person in sight as I climbed up the lighthouse metal steps and gazed at the sparkling, still waters all around me. The island walk was divine and just my cup of tea, with no-one in sight and utter peacefulness. Arriving back at the resort, I swam in the idyllic small swimming pool, doing 100 lengths before moving on to the bubbly Jacuzzi to enjoy the many coloured bougainvillea shrubs, flowing all around me. Even just the use of a divinely fluffy, pillow towel and relaxing beachside lounger was a real treat.
It was time for lunch that I’d specially ordered for 1.30pm, so I went on to enjoy four absolutely lovely food courses, with gorgeous fish, mixed salad and fresh fruits and iced tea. I was absolutely podged because, being a backpacker, we always eat what’s put in front of us!! Then it was over to the beach to take a kayak on the inner island lagoon, absolutely full of really rich and healthy mangrove trees, all dipping into and swaying across the waters. Afterwards, it was now time for me to savour the marine sanctuary, snorkelling for two whole hours and never wanting to leave. The staff had told me which area was best, but I couldn’t believe just how many varieties of fish were around in relatively shallow water!
I saw shoals and shoals of fish moving around, with a huge ‘island’ of coral lying in the water. It was so, so pretty, with so many fish going about their business in and out of the plants and rocks. I really didn’t want to leave this place, because it was such a privilege to stay in the water and see so much, for so long! The staff said they could see I was having a great time, because I never came up for a normal swim! But I wouldn’t have wanted to, because there was such much beauty under the water, this time!! I was pretty wrinkly by the time I got out!! It was such a shame to have to hand in the snorkelling gear and leave such a brilliant, brilliant area of natural art behind, but my day was nearly over. After a good shower and my hair washed, I was ready to walk back thro’ the island to savour my last walk back to the boat pier. As I sat on the boat making my way back on the Bangka, I knew I’d just enjoyed the most amazing day ever, in the most spectacular way!
Returning to the mainland and Marilyn’s Place, my lovely priest owner (he didn’t know that I knew about his work – I’d been sworn to secrecy by the staff) insisted I had some bread and bananas, with another coffee, before I took the bus to Cebu City and on to the airport. He was quite, quite the most special person ever, along with his lovely staff. I gave him a hug as I left and thanked him for being so kind and caring. It had been a very special place for a very short time.
In no time at all, I was sitting on a plane, making my way back to Manila and leaving behind everything that had been so beautiful and special. Very special.
Friday 20th January 2012 – Manila hospital and National Gallery of Art
I arrived back in the early hours of the morning and went straight to sleep, after being welcomed back at Friendly’s Guesthouse by the staff. In the morning, I unlocked my old locker and took out all the gear I’d left here, waiting to be taken on to Taiwan and then home to the UK (from a more trusted post office than here in the Philippines). Eventually, my bag had grown from 13kgs to 25kgs, with everything specially packed so that I could carry it all.
I walked to the Manila Doctors Hospital and had my typhoid injection that would hopefully put me in good staid for another 3 years, before I headed over for food at the Philippines chain of Jollibee. After walking on to the National Gallery of Art, a place that reopened in 2008 after being renovated, I first saw some local 18th century images and icons, tutored by church friars. There were incredible paintings by Juan Luna and Hidalgo, 19th century masters (Spoliarum, Governor Dasmannas & Mother’s Revenge). La Descencion de Jesus was painted by Amorsolo in the early 1900s and many artists represented the pre-modernistic era of the 1930s.
Altho’ there wasn’t much art produced during the Japanese occupation, there was several artists’ work represented. But a proliferation of art soon began again after the war, with the brilliant Burning of Sto Domingo representing the era. Modern art featured in the 1960s portfolio of Ink Fish, Mother & Child, Planting of the First Cross & First Mass at Limasawa. Several paintings and sculptures appeared in the 1970s collection, with the Hills of Nikko a prominent piece. Traditional and ethnic art became prominent again in the 1980s and the museum featured many artists and there were more featured artists from paintings generated in the 1990s. There was some great work here, but I somehow never felt anything had really touched my soul.
After buying some fins ready for Indonesia (since Taiwan would be expensive), I got some last minute supplies and headed back to Ermita, where I had a couple of beers at a local roadside bar with some backpackers. Drinking really cheap Red Horse beer and watching others smoking really cheap cigarettes brought home how the Philippines are really great value for money. Begging children and men selling crazy, pathetic furry toy pets and flashing toys touted the area, waiting for people to get drunk enough to buy the daft things! It was time to get back to the hostel.
Saturday 21st January 2012 – Manila > KL > Taipei, Taiwan
I’d left the hostel by 5.30am, arriving at the Philtranco bus station at 5.50, in plenty of time for my 6.30am bus to the airport, some 2 hours away. As usual, I had a lovely taxi driver to talk to about his home and family, making me think again about these great islands collectively called the Philippines. Yes, Manila had its grotty and poor areas and didn’t have a lot of places of interest to visit, but this was because of the Japanese and the Battle of Manila, and more lately because of the corruption in their governments. But the people were incredible: very friendly and very kind and the rest of the Philippines that I visited – just beautiful. I’d love to come back to the islands again and see more of this beautiful place that definitely has a special place within me.
After a series of flights, I arrived very late in Taipei, on a cooler evening than I’d known for some time. But thankfully, it wasn’t bitter cold and easy enough to navigate. By the early hours, I was tucked up in a new, comfy bed in a Chinese world full of great tradition and culture
