The never ending paddle
Trip Start Jan 07, 2010
10Trip End Mar 24, 2010
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She's thie whole reason why i started coming down here to peru... and it was perfect timing when she called and told me she wanted to meet me in huanchaco because we were both dying to go see the famous chicama.. longest left in the world...
so me, julia, her friend christie, and marianna went on a girls surf trip up to chicama... it was actually a pretty cool experience because Marianna's mom Silvana used to go there a lot in her younger days so she was close to the owners of el hombre, a really famous hostal right in front of the break of chicama. For Marianna it was a chance for her family to reconnect with the establishment, and for the rest of us, it was nice being treated like family.. because if you remember from my last bog, if you are friends of friends well you´re in the club as thorugh you were family :)
The break is simply put a wave machine.. and just breathtaking to look out.. almost like a dream... but because of how it is set up the current is super strong.. once you make it in you cant stop paddling ecaues if you do then you can literally see yourelf floating north.. super crazy! I paddled for 2 hours straight and felt like iw s on a treadmill for paddling.. super good work out though.. had amazingingly good meals after those sessons :)
We spent our days surfing and tanning and our nights playig truth or dare with a couple of otehr guys who came up from huanchaco... but after a couple of days we decided to headoup to pacasmayo.. a town i hadnt heard of until marianna told me she wanted to head there... so julia and christie headed south to lima, and me and marianna packed our bags to head north.
from the beginning me and marianna felt that God was just guiding the whole trip because everything just flowed so nicely... first we had a amzing talk about God adn life, adn then i started playing my ukulele on the corner when a taxi heading to pahan where we needed to go stopped right by our feet. after he dropped us off he told us we didnt have to pay.. that it was on the house and hten a few seconds later the bus for pacasmayo shows up,... oce we got off the bus soem guy started to take our boards and bags, load it on the moto taxi and then startd insisting on taking us to the hostal called el faro... or soemtyhing like that... which is where dori.. the dughter of el hombre , told us we should go!
once we got there and got settled, a group of brazilian guys (pacsmayo=brazil in terms of tourists.. and surfers) were about to take a taxi to the point el faro to surf so we hopped in the moto taxi with them.. which was perfect because they were able to show us where to paddle out and where the dangers re.. i guess there´s a sunken boat out there!
and it was so beautiufl because on one else was out.. just the 4 of us!!! and we all had an amzing surf adn then paddled back to the pier near our hostal...
we were planning on only staying one night, but we had such a great connection with the brazilian gusy that we stayed an extra night... it´s not too often that you make a connection with people where you feel like they´re like instant family.. it was nice because i felt like we were all looking after each other...
i´m glad we styaed because the next night was the anniversary party of the town and there was a huge fair! there was a ferris wheel, local food, slides games, adn the best part was the trampoline.. this thign was intnese because they had huge exercise balls on the inside and so you can imagine.. 2 big guys adn two girls with a bunch of bouncing balls.. well we went flying all over the place.. you would jump and then someone would throw the ball at your feat making you flip over.. i felt like i was a little kid again.. adn everyone was watching us becaue we were the only ädults¨doing it... i think it was one of the best moments of my entire trip!
after going home late we ended up waking up at 530 to take a taxi together to puemapey a really awesome surf spot in a town that felt like a ghost town... i didnt feel like surfing rightaway because i was still waking up so ended up being hte surf photographer and got some sick shots of mariana and carlso, one of the brazilian guys.. aftter watching them for a bit i jumped in and caught the longest wave on my short board i had ever taken in my life.. as was the them of the trip, we were all super stoked...
but as in life, seasons come and go, adn that afternoon i left to come back to huanchaco in order to make it for my friends bday party... i almost tayed, but i just felt like it was time to go so i did.. but i think we´re all meeting up again at mariana´s home in sna bartolow on saturday.. my last weeked before i go home...
these last few days in huanchaco i´ve been trying to say my goodbyes.. taking my last lessons on the uke.. and i´m trying to get a local to take me out to surf the caballitos tomorrow.. wish me luck!!