A Whale of a Time
Trip Start Sep 27, 2012
89Trip End Sep 04, 2013
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Where I stayed
We headed for the little town of El Rosario about 4 hours south of Ensenada. The main highway is tarred but only 2 lanes and pot holes everywhere. Every other road is dirt, but after 3 days of rain - mud. There is no curb or guttering and most shop fronts just mud puddles. This is a very underserviced area and the downturn in the economy has hit Mexico hard, not to mention the drug wars. Tourism is down and many high rise developments have just been abandoned. Its such a shame because the people are so friendly and helpful.
El Rosario was a little dot on the map but a good overnight stop, we met some American guys in the local cantina who had been down here panning for gold.
Today we travelled 5 hours over very narrow stretches of road with many sections of guardrail that had been smashed through by some vehicle probably travelling too fast on these roads
We passed through forests of rock and cactus, miles and miles of mountain and desert.
Passed through numerous military check points along the way, but they are not interested in the tourist so always just wave us on, we have our passports handy ha ha!! so typical, no one ever wants to see it when you have it. I thought it would be a bit confronting but actually I feel safe having the military so visible.
We are staying in a town called Guerrero Negro on the border of Baja California and Baja California Sur. This is the area where the whales come to give birth and at present there are about 300 here.
30/01/2013: Guerrero Negro is a major salt mining town and a tourist destination for the grey whale who migrates to the inlet here to give birth. They love the shallow water and the safety of the bay and because the water is so salty their babies when born just pop to the surface. We headed out early on a tour and luckily so quiet here at present we were the only ones on the boat with our skipper. Almost immediately a huge mum and her calf came up to our small boat, they swam around and under and at one stage mum even nudged the boat. So close we could have touched them. Mum also splashed us with her tail and blew water at our skipper. It was fantastic to be so close. They are very docile in these calm waters so not much breaching. We also saw dolphins and seals. A great day.