Cusco continued

Trip Start Jun 02, 2005
1
19
26
Trip End Aug 19, 2005


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Monday, August 1, 2005

Tonight is my last evening in Cusco. I have really enjoyed this town. Although it is a little tourist overkill, it does boast amazing churches, art, museums, shopping, and culture. I have done a lot of all of those the last few days. I'm not allowed to take pictures in most museums and churches so sorry I couldn't included more of that.
One that I do have pictures of is the Qorikancha and Iglesia de Santo Domingo. The Qorikancha was an incredibly important Inca building which included the sun and moon temples, housed thousands of priests, served as an astronomical observatory, and held the captured idols of conquered tribes as a sort of blackmail to discourage rebellion. Smart Incas! The Spaniards built a church on top of it (culture killing Spaniards!), but a 1950 earthquake revealed the Inca building below. Today it a museum enclosing the remains of the Qorikancha, an art gallery, and is attached to a new church.
Yesterday afternoon I visited the Inca site of Sacsayhuaman. It is located on a hill just outside of town. It is thought that Cusco was originally constructed by the Inca in the shape of a puma, and Sacsayhuaman was the head of the puma. It is considered a fortress, but it does have many non-defensive buildings as well. Because of its enormous plaza area surrounded by terraced hills offering an ideal view, some also theorize it was a center for large ceremonial festivities. Only a fraction of the site exists today because the Spanish used it as a quarry. Still, even in its skeletal form, it is impressive and mind boggling. The Inca used massive stones without mortar to construct their walls. The stones were carved and perfectly fitted together like a puzzle. Investigators marvel at how they managed such a difficult task without the use of metal tools. The same construction technique was used for the important buildings in Cusco (the commoners lived in adobe houses). Some can still be found along a few of Cusco's streets, but much has been devastated by multiple earthquakes. The Spanish (and even locals today) tried to imitate the Inca architecture, but even with metal technology the lesser quality work is easily detected.
On a hill next to Sacsayhuaman stands Cristo Blanco, a large ivory statue of Jesus with outstretched arms, protecting over the city. A plaque reads in Quechua, ¨Alli n kay kaypacha wiñaypaqkachun,¨ or ¨Peace prevails in the world.¨ A nice message. I like how they have conveniently forgotten how many indigenous people were killed in order to expand the land of Christians.
Well, tomorrow I head back to Lima. During my last few days in Peru I plan to visit my friend Namita, who is currently participating in her Peace Corps training just outside of Lima, and perhaps meet up with a few of my Peruvian friends from the dig for one last hooray. Then I fly to Mexico to spend two weeks traveling with Dane. Or we may disappear and never come back. We'll see.
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Comments

dane
dane on

Some thoughts
When you say disappear, do you mean we disappear so as to escape the monotony and drudgery of a capitalistic life of career ladder climbing and socializing with people we secretly loathe only to hate ourselves later for the death of our ideals? Or disappear, like they find us in a ditch somewhere? I vote for the former.

And what's up with the Christian bashing? Machiavellian thought was readily accepted by the Church. The death of millions to pave the road for progress is the story for all of the New World. The sword and the cross were the tools in South and Central America. In the north, we used small pox blankets and guns. And aren't the churches pretty? Case closed.

dane
dane on

Also...
Did you know the heaviest stone at Sacsayhuaman weighs 125 tons? So not only the carving of, but the transportation of the stones, is quite impressive.

hudsonblair
hudsonblair on

Re: Some thoughts
What you mean 'we' whiteman? I am not my great great grandfather. 'We' didn't use smallpox and guns, although my ancestors were certainly unsavory characters.

Besides, why single out Christians. The indigenous peoples of the Americas certainly engaged in more than their fair share of murder and mayhem in the name of their gods. Christians in the Americas got a big boost in their devotion to destruction by disease, and sometimes they willingly encouraged the spread of said diseases, but much of the dying was a simple result of biological forces rather than the result of a well thought out plan.

dane
dane on

Oh, this would be fun...
But this is Lindsey's travel pod. I will leave this discussion in her able hands. And I would never want to inadvertently offend any of Lindsey's friends, family or fans. I do enjoy being referred to as 'whiteman' one word though. I may have a t-shirt made.

hudsonblair
hudsonblair on

Fun Is What It's All About
You won't offend me, and perhaps Lindsey would like to participate in the discussion. The 'What you mean 'we' whiteman?' refers to an old joke about Tonto and the Lone Ranger, and grammatical conventions aside, the point stands.

I agree, however, that this is Lindsey's space, and I wouldn't want to muddy the waters. She has my email, and I would like to continue the discussion. Please contact me if you have time to play.

Lindsey, I'm really enjoying your posts (and the replies), and your photography is really excellent. I especially like the way you capture lighting effects in some of these pics. I look forward to more.

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