From Reutte to Salzburg

Trip Start Aug 03, 2010
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Trip End Aug 31, 2010


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Where I stayed
Jungengastehaus Salzburg - a hostel

Flag of Austria  , Austrian Alps,
Monday, August 23, 2010

August 23, 2010 Monday: Linderhof to Salzburg, Austria

Today we drove from Reutte to Salzburg stopping at another of Mad Ludwig's castles.  We were packed and ready to go before 9:00.  We stopped at the grocery store in Reutte and bought more cookies and candy, just what we don’t need.  The road to Linderhof was a back road that went over a pass through the forest and beside Plansee, a beautiful lake that was like a mirror reflecting the mountains.  We couldn’t resist stopping several times for pictures.

At Linderhof we got tickets for the tour just 15 minutes before the tour started.  Mad King Ludwig actually finished this castle and lived in it for 8 years.  It was a much smaller version of Versailles and dedicated to King Louis XIV of France whom King Ludwig admired.  "Nec Pluribus Impar" was in several places and it means something like, “I’m superior to all.”  In the castle we saw the music room with a combination piano/organ.  In between rooms were waiting rooms called cabinets because they were so small.  There was a yellow cabinet after the music room.  The walls were done in yellow silk and it was gilt in silver.  Next was the throne room whose best feature was a mosaic floor with over 2 million tiles.  The lilac cabinet had a picture of Madame Pompedieu who was the favorite mistress of Louis XIV.   The bedroom was next with a very “king” sized bed all in peacock blue.  There was a secret door off the bedroom that led down to the toilet on the first floor.  The rose cabinet was between the bedroom and the dining room and had a portrait of the woman said to be the most beautiful in the French court.  Ludwig liked to dine alone so the table in the dining room could be lowered into the kitchen, filled with the meal, and then returned to the dining room.  Ludwig was a real eccentric recluse.  Before the hall of mirrors was the blue cabinet, again in Ludwig’s favorite, peacock blue.  The hall of mirrors had a set of mirrors that made it look there were infinite hallways on each side.  We really enjoyed our tour.  It ended by going through a secret door that took us out through what must have been the kitchens but were now a souvenir shop.

The gardens at Linderhof were magnificent.  Ludwig did not want to see the “profanity” of nature, so his gardens were landscaped in such a way that he couldn’t see the lake or the woods.  Everything was formal with mixed styles of baroque, rococo and English that worked very well together.  There were arbors and fountains and waterfalls.  There was a shrine to Venus.  There was a constructed cave that had a grotto with water and a scene from a Wagner opera including a boat and waterfall.  Ludwig had a Moorish Kiosk and a Moroccan House moved onto the property from Italy.  They were very ornate and beautiful.  We went to see the Hunderhutte (hunting hut) and it was a reconstruction as the original had burned down.  It had a live tree in the middle of it with bearskin rugs, very rustic.  When we got back to the castle from walking the gardens, suddenly the fountain in the largest pool started spouting water like Old Faithful geyser.  We got lunch before we left the castle, two orders of Wiener Schnitzel mit pommes (with French fries) which we split.  Mom and Erin got bottles of water while Dad and Derek got half liters of beer.

We stopped at the Ettal Monastery in Ettal.  This was a cloister and so there is an enclosed courtyard.  The Church itself was very ornate as are most of the churches here.  The ceiling of the dome was painted with murals and many of the side areas and the altar area were full of paintings.  I am about done with churches.  I will never remember them all when I start looking at pictures. 

On the way to Salzburg we passed by the largest lake in Germany, Chiemsee.  Mad Ludwig built a castle on an island in the lake, called Chiemsee Schloss.  We didn’t stop to see this one because you had to take a boat to the island and we didn’t have time.  We got to Salzburg about 5:00 and checked in at JUFA, Jungengastehaus Salzburg which is a hostel.  We have a family room which basically means 4 beds in one room with a private bath.  Derek and Erin are sleeping in single beds on each side of the room, Larry is in a bunk bed that stretches across the room above the heads of their beds, and I am in a pull out bed on the other side of the room that serves as a place to sit during the day.  The room is about 12 feet square.  There is an ante room with lockers and shelves and hooks for hanging things.  The bathroom is off this room, about 6 x 6, with a shower in the corner that opens at the corner with sliding doors.  We have one big window that either swings open into the middle of the room or tilts open at the top. 

Once we were settled in we looked for a place to eat in the Rick Steve’s “bible.”  We picked the closest recommended and it turned out to be down a very narrow alley.  We entered through a doorway and went up a flight of stairs and then through two rooms to biergarten which was also on the second story with real trees growing up through it and covered with umbrellas strung with multicolored lights.  So great atmosphere.  The meals were also very good.  Derek and Erin had spatzle, Larry had Tirolean Grostl which was roast pork, roast potatoes and a fried egg, and I had Schlutzkrapfen , a stuffed pasta with roasted tomatoes, zucchini, red and yellow peppers. 

When we finished eating we walked around and saw Kapital Platz which has a large golden ball about 15 feet high that has a man figure standing on it.  Mozart Platz has a large statue of Mozart who was born here in Salzburg.  We also went to Residenz Platz that has a large fountain with larger than life horses.

When we got back to the hostel, we all looked at email, blogged and updated our Travelpod sites.  We sat outside because the internet is only available in the lobby area.  Larry, Derek and Erin had beers while they blogged and I had a bottle of water.  Derek, Erin and I put in ear plugs to sleep because it was a little noisy with the window open. 
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