Cochin
Trip Start
Jun 25, 2007
1
18
23
Trip End
Aug 17, 2007
Cochin, India
Monday, July 23, 2007
On Sunday, after the best meal of our trip at the Taj in Chennai, we moved from the southern east coast to the southern west coast - and it only took a two hour flight with one stop and a two and a half hour delay! We spent almost all day traveling. The best news: none of the Fulbrighters got off the plane too early, and none continued on to the United Arab Emirates, so we consider the day a success!
Sunday was our first morning Sunday waking up without an alarm. Glorious!! Even so, to my great dismay, I woke up about 7:30 am. Actually, I may have slept longer, but my roommate Mary went out to do some yoga, grabbed the key out of the electronic sleeve by the door, and left me in darkness. Not much of a problem in the main room, since the sun had been up for a few hours and all I had to do was open a curtain. But the bathroom of the room was around two corners and set waaaayyy back, and is pitch black without artificial lighting. So even though I didn't intend to get up, knowing that I would have to practically crawl back to the toilet or feel my way past the bidet and sink (in a bathroom bigger than Julia's old bedroom), I just decided to get up. Of course, Mary's key was right by the window, but in her gracious attempt to let me sleep, she didn't want to open the curtain to find it. So we had a good laugh and I got up in plenty of time to attend English Mass at Cathedral SanThome with colleague Kevin. It was jam packed like Easter Sunday and well worth my time.
We are now in Cochin. A newspaper put us on the front page today - fortunately no quotes. A reporter spent the day with us, too. We have had 2 articles printed about us here in Cochin, both much more positive than the awful lies in Bhubaneswar. Here's a link to The Hindu: http://www.thehindu.com/yw/2007/08/03/stories/20070803507506 00.htm
and Newindpress.com: http://www.newindpress.com/NewsItems.asp?ID=IEX2007072401521 6&Page=X&Title=&Topic=0&
but the texts are them at the end of this entry in case the links get disabled.
We attended a private school today that beat every one we've been to in its welcome. At the school, when we "alighted from the bus" we were greeted by 10 young female drummers, then asked to follow them (as they drummed) at least 100 meters down a driveway. The procession included us passing by young ladies every meter (!), elegantly attired and bejeweled, each holding a brass dish of fresh flowers. I must have said "Good Morning" 50 times, and got a smile from each of the girls. When we arrived at the school proper, we received our customary red bindi. It looks like bright red clay in a brass dish - the bestower dips her finger in oil, then the red powder, then marks our forehead in blessing and welcome. The next child puts a fragrant lei over our head. And that was only the beginning of the hospitality.
Our afternoon was spent on a city tour and boat ride. Cochin is India in microcosm: trash and plastic in piles everywhere, awful looking water in gutters, and fisherman using net contraptions that look like WaterWorld- Star Wars and medieval times combined. Look the other way and you'll see huge oil tankers and container ships in the harbor. Crazy and wonderful.
I am typing in an internet café - R20 (about 50 cents) for an hour vs. the $4 for a half hour at the hotels that I've been paying. But with the discount comes a cell-like space at 100 degrees - I'm dripping with sweat!, so I will stop now. I miss everyone and look forward to: 1. Ron coming over in a week and a half, and 2. being back in the US in less than a month!
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ARTICLES:
1. Article from Newindpress.com:
KOCHI: As part of the Fulbright-Hays Seminars Abroad Programme, funded by US Department of Education, 16 educators from the US visited Bhavan's School, Elamakkara, on Monday.
The team is in the city to learn more about the teaching practises at reputed schools here. Mark Skelton, Math/Science chair at the Fannie Lou Hamer Freedom High School in Bronx, New York, leads them.
The team interacted with faculty and students of the school. Extracurricular activities, diplomatic dealing with parents and student-teacher relationship at the school were discussed at the interactive session. After the interaction, the team visited the classrooms at the school. They saw yoga demonstrations and music classes. The visit focused on the teaching of mathematics and science in schools.
''When Indian students come to the US they come well prepared. I came here to know the secret of their preparation,'' said Mark Skelton. He also said that the number of Indian students in the US universities had increased in the last few years. ''The parent-teacher relationship in Indian schools is very good,'' said Mark.
''I love teaching and I maintain a good relationship with my students,'' said Mark adding that the relationship is an added advantage in teaching.
The other team members are Linda Allen from Gunston Middle School, Virginia, Amanda Clapp from Cullowhee Valley School, North Carolina, Anita Aysolo from Walter Payton College Prep High School, Downtown Chicago, Geoff Mcpherson from International School of America, Texas, Shirley Jou from Alexander Rose Elementary, Berkeley, Kevin J Mulroe from Clemens Crossing Elementary, Maryland, Mary Craig from John Marshall Elementary School Virginia, Melissa Hamilton from Alexandria City Public School, Virginia, Renae Lenhardt from Jackson Middle School, Minnesota, David K.Lennington from Alamo Elementary School, Texas, Robert Oddo from Horace Greely High School, Sarah M Segal, Columbia, Denise Watts from Rosa Parks Elementary School Monroe, Jennifer R Zinn from College of Staten Island High School, New York City, and Susan L Schwartz from Marsh Grammar School, Massachusetts.
The team visited the mathematics and science labs at the school. Parents and former students of the school took part in the interactive programme. ''We are happy to engage students in such a programme,'' said Jaya Jacob, principal of Bhavan's School, Elamakkara.
On Tuesday the team will visit the Centre for Science in Society, and Department of Mathematics at Cochin University of Science and Technology (Cusat).
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2. (via email from Kevin)
KOCHI
Aug 12, 2007
Fulbright team to pick up smart ideas
Saturday July 7 2007 14:11 IST
KOCHI: For the first time, a band of 16 Fulbright scholars from the United States is arriving in Kochi to take a few lessons from our curriculum, schools and institutions!
Yes, these scholars - US educators and administrators from elementary, middle and secondary schools - will identify and adopt the best practices followed by schools and academic institutions in Kochi.
They will visit the Centre for Science in Society, Cusat, the Association of Mathematics School Teachers and the Bhavan's Vidya Mandir at Elamakkara from July 23 to 25 - to find out what makes these institutions tick.
The tour is being organised by the United States Educational Foundation in India.
The scholars will focus on Mathematics and Science subjects which preserve the talent pool they are looking for. They will observe the classes by teachers of various Bhavan's schools at the Elamakkara campus to understand how Maths and Science are taught to children here.
At the Centre for Science in Society at Cusat, the group will particularly study the famed Young Scientist Programme for school students and the training programme for teachers.
They will also see for themselves the various facilities at the centre, including laboratories, library and space museum. Later, the Fulbright scholars will visit the Association of Mathematics School Teachers and the Mathematics Olympiad co-ordinator.
Yoga is another topic that's high on their agenda and the team will observe yoga classes and demonstrations by students.
Aysola Anita, a high school Maths teacher in the team, is a performing artist and yoga teacher. The group will also attend a lecture-demonstration of kalarippayattu.
The scholars will unwind at Fort Kochi beach and Mattanchery watching the fishing nets and at the Dutch Palace, Jewish Synagogue and St Francis Church.
The visitors include teachers Linda Allen, Clapp Amanda, Shirley Jou, David Lennington, McPherson Geoff, Mulroe Kevin, Robert Oddo, Watts Denise, Zinn Jennifer and Marc Skelton.
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3. The Hindu
Scholarly visits can be great fun too
JOHN L. PAUL
Over a week ago, Kochi played host to 16 teachers from the US. They were quite amazed at the respect that teachers 'automatically' get in India, something which they have to 'earn' in the US.
The five men and eleven women were Fulbright scholars, on a six-week tour of the country. The Fulbright-Hays Seminars Abroad Programme 2007 was funded by the US Department of Education. They visited many schools and other institutions, "to learn and not to teach", as Mark Skelton, their team leader put it. A teacher in an alternative public high school in New York, he is also a basketball coach and prefers to commute in a bicycle. "We wanted to discover the secret behind Indians' quest for knowledge and what as educators, we could learn from India's best practices. I have often been surprised at the number of Indians coming to the US to study," he says. His area of interest is the student-teacher relationship and he spoke of how deep and "beyond words" the relationship is in India.
Impressive
Mr Skelton was impressed at the reception that the team got at Bhavan's Vidya Mandir, Elamakkara. "It was the most touching one that we got in the whole of the country. We found that India has skilfully combined the traditional way of learning, with the modern one, to become a formidable force in the world stage." He took exception to teachers pushing students to learn. "Students must enjoy competition," he believes.
Apart from schools, the team visited temples and NGOs. While on a boat ride through Kochi's backwaters, most of the teachers clicked photographs of traditional fishing craft, churches, old buildings of Mattancherry and the famed Chinese fishing nets of Fort Kochi. Geoff Mcpherson, envies teachers in India. "They automatically get respect, while we have to 'earn' respect in the US. Indian students are very eager to learn and love science subjects, whereas there is some sort of phobia for science among most US students. Their ultimate aim is to become a lawyer or a businessman." A biology teacher, he was named 'teacher of the year', by colleagues and students.
Enrichment
Among the Fulbright scholars was Anita Aysola, whose parents are from Andhra Pradesh. A maths teacher, she is also a certified yoga instructor.
She lives in Chicago. Ms Anita spoke of the waiting list in her school to attend yoga classes. "The difference in perception of students who attend yoga classes is very evident. It has to be integrated into the curriculum." She learned some tips on Vedic Mathematics, at BVM, Elamakkara. The guests wanted to know the secret of how our students perform well in studies and become well-placed in life, says BVM Principal Jaya Jacob. "They also evinced interest in enrichment, remedial and smart classes that are given in our school." A yoga-demonstration class too was organised for the guests. Each of the visiting teachers teamed up with an Indian teacher to develop a curriculum unit for his/her class in the US. Accompanying them was S. Vasudevan, Administrative Coordinator of the US Educational Foundation in India.
For details of Fulbright opportunities, check out the website www.fulbright-india.org.
© Copyright 2000 - 2006 The Hindu
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In India, a Jewish Outpost Slowly Withers
After Many Emigrated to Israel, Once-Thriving Community on Southern Coast 'Is Dying Out'
By Emily Wax
Washington Post Foreign Service
Monday, August 27, 2007; A09
KOCHI, India -- Down a narrow, stone-paved road in a quarter known here as "Jew Town," a woman with salt-and-pepper hair was sewing glittery beads onto the rim of a Jewish prayer cap. It was just after 3 p.m., and Sarah Cohen, wearing a housedress and flip-flops, sat in the sunny doorway of her shop, waiting for the visitors from around the world to come in for a visit.
Cohen lives right near the Pardesi Synagogue, which was built in 1568 when Jewish spice traders set up businesses in this small outpost of the Jewish world on the South Indian Malabar coast. The synagogue sparkles with colorful Indian chandeliers and green and red glass candleholders that swing from the ceiling beams. The floor is intricately patterned with blue and white tiles imported from a Jewish community in China in the 15th century.
As visitors wandered by on their way to the synagogue, one of the oldest in the world, they looked curiously at the little Jewish woman speaking in Malayalam, the language of the southern state of Kerala.
Cohen explained that she is a part of a dying tradition here that will probably no longer exist in 10 years, because most of the Jews who used to live here emigrated to Israel during its creation in 1948. Now, there are believed to be only 13 elderly Indian-born Jews -- from seven families -- still living in Kochi, a sun-dappled city thick with coconut palms.
"We couldn't bring ourselves to leave. We are Indians, too. Why should we leave the only place we have known as home?" Cohen said with a gentle wobble of her head, an Indian gesture sometimes used for emphasis. "Besides, I like this place. And I like the people."
Jews flourished in India for centuries -- from biblical times, some scholars say. The country also gave safe haven to Jews during World War II.
Small but active Jewish communities remain in Mumbai, including the so-called Baghdadi Jews who come from Iraq, Iran, Syria and Afghanistan and are thought to have arrived about 250 years ago. In northeastern India, an estimated 9,000 Indians started practicing Judaism in the 1970s, saying they were a lost tribe and descendants of the tribe of Manasseh. Israel has recognized them as ethnically Jewish.
But in Kochi, there is concern that Jew Town soon will be little more than a quirky tourist destination.
On a recent afternoon, Cohen's friend Abdul Anas, 33, stopped by to check on her. He often looks in on her, since he was good friends with her husband, Jacob Cohen, a lawyer who died eight years ago.
Sarah Cohen and Anas spoke easily to each other in Malayalam. They laughed when Anas said that he was a Muslim but didn't mind working in Jew Town. They don't discuss Israel or politics, they said. "Who cares?" Sarah asked. "That's over there, and we are here," Anas shrugged.
"To me, it's a part of Indian history. Her husband always gave me fair work. I call her auntie. And she's alone now so I take her to the hospital when she is sick," said Anas, who sells postcards of the synagogue from his pushcart. "I feel bad for her. And actually I feel really sad that the community is dying out."
Israeli tourists to India, along with Jews from the United States, sometimes drop off boxes of matzoh ball soup mix and kosher cookies. "They tell me I remind them of their bubby," Cohen said, using the Yiddish word for grandmother.
Cohen displayed her frilly white bread covers, used on the Jewish Sabbath during a blessing over the bread. The covers were stamped with her name: "Sarah Cohen: Kochi, India."
"We are kosher, but also Indian," she said, adding that she uses chapati, an Indian flatbread, rather than the braided challah bread of European Jews.
The Jewish community here eats no beef, out of respect for the Hindu prohibition on eating cow meat. But they do keep kosher, eating chicken cooked with cloves, chickpeas and cardamom and fish curry steeped in coconut milk along with pineapple and mango for dessert, Cohen said. "Why not? Fruit is kosher."
She shuffled into her small living quarters next to her shop for some ginger tea and cookies.
Outside, some tourists were lining up to visit the synagogue. In Kerala, there are still three synagogues, but the one here is the only one still open and is a protected heritage site.
A series of large oil paintings in an entry room of the synagogue tell the history of the Jews in Kochi. The first painting depicts King Solomon's merchant ship greeting Indian leaders and trading peacocks, ivory, spices and teak wood.
The inscriptions under the paintings say that the Book of Esther in the Old Testament contains the first written mention of Jews in India. The Jews blended many of their customs with their host country's. For instance, a dialect called Judeo-Malayalam, a mix of Hindi, Tamil, Malayalam and Hebrew, was spoken. In Kochi, shoes are taken off before entering the main prayer room, as in Hindu tradition, and flowers are used as a part of prayer.
K.J. Joy, the Hindu caretaker of the synagogue for 25 years, said it's only a matter of a short time before the Jews of Kochi disappear, and with them the unique mix of Indian and Jewish culture. "This will become a monument, not a working synagogue," he said. "For that, we feel really horrible."
He showed a visitor a small pamphlet written by members of the community in the 1980s, which tells the history of Jew Town. The booklet praises India for giving shelter and respect to the Jews throughout history.
"After some years the story of the Jews of Malabar may come to an end," reads the small book handed out to visitors for 10 rupees, or about 20 cents. "If this happens, history can record that their emigration was not motivated by intolerance or discrimination by India."
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Comments
Can't stop reading
As mentioned by others, your writing is lovely and I have a real feel for what you are experiencing. I'm so impressed at your discipline of writing so regularly, even when you weren't well. I hope someone took pictures of that long lines of beautiful girls welcoming you and your colleagues. I look forward to hearing more stories when you come back.
Thank you for sharing this adventure!
Elena