Limping of the Calves, Pamplona
Trip Start
May 04, 2012
1
16
19
Trip End
Sep 02, 2012
Where I stayed
Wednesday 30 May / Thursday 31 May
Pamplona
The muscles were still complaining this morning. You know that “listen to your body” rule… well, I was listening but I didn’t like what I was hearing so I chose to ignore it. For heaven’s sake all we’re doing is walking! Were glad to be leaving Zubiri as we passed the Magna factory on the way out and got back out into the countryside, looking forward to seeing Pamplona and no more walking for a whole week! Then, about 3 kms in and halfway up a hill, PING!!! Aaaaaah Ooooow F@#*!!!!!! Calf muscle tear. Hobbled on a bit further hoping it was nothing and would come right. Sat down to put some tape around it that Didi had with her and some nice French ladies squirted some Voltaren cream on my leg and I set off to give it another go. Realised very quickly that this was bad so had to make a decision – 17kms on to Pamplona with a serious (painful) limp or 4kms back to Zubiri to get a taxi. Handed walking notes and guide book to Didi who carried on and turned back. Hobbled all the way back – passed several walkers on the way back – they were the stragglers who’d started out late and many of them were in a worse state than I was judging by the way they were limping along. Can’t believe they just carry on! Dedication or idiocy?
To cut a slightly longer story short, after nearly 2 hours getting back and finding someone to help in Zubir,i finally got someone in one of the albergues to phone a taxi which arrived within half hour. Then a 20 minute trip into Pamplona and 24euros later I’m safely delivered to our hotel. Relief. Tried to book a second night at the hotel so we don’t have to move tomorrow but they’re full. Bugger.
Di texts to say she’s only about 5 kms out so will see me soon. She turns up a couple of hours later having been wandering around Pamplona getting lost for the last hour, poor thing! The map was attached to the hotel voucher which I needed in order to check in. The patchy instructions she'd jotted down weren't very helpful.
Decide to hobble down to the Plaza and get some well-earned, cold cervezas. Yay! the hotel tells us as we go out that they’ve got a room for us tomorrow after all! Find a Farmacia and get some strapping for my calf. Early night after Paella for tea.
Didn’t do a lot in Pamplona on account of being a cripple. Still managed to have a wander around the town and saw most things I think. Nice enough place. I know it’s claim to fame is the running of the bulls that happens in July. Our hotel room looked right over the street where the bulls run so would be in a prime spot at that time. The bull fighting ring was just around the corner. There was a huge protest happening while we were there and the police presence was very strong. My, they have big guns here. Also a scary heavily armed squad in helmets and balaclavas. It was a very peaceful protest with lots of families and children but I don’t think anyone would dare to misbehave.
We met a couple of ladies from San Francisco and they joined us for dinner. Hi, Mary and Kathy, if you happen to read this! Paella again and the biggest G&Ts I’ve ever seen! Since seen these being poured at many cafes in Spain – they bring the whole bottle out and pour into enourmous glasses at the table. Fabulous. Mary and Kathy were also doing part of the camino and we tried to help them out with travel plans for the next day as we have laptops with us. There are a number of times we’ve cursed the extra weight of carting these around with us but they have really come into their own when it comes to pre-booking accommodation and researching transport options. Anyway, turned out we weren’t much help in the end, but we tried. Thank you for lovely bottle of bubbly you shared with us.
Booked bus tickets to Logrono for the next day.
Friday 1st June
Logrono
Our first experience travelling on Spanish buses so didn’t know what to expect. It’s all extremely easy and efficient. The bus is more of a coach really, very comfortable. Departed Pamplona exactly on time and arrived in Logrono exactly on time too, about 1 hour 45 mins from memory. All for 7,50. The hotel was close enough to walk to but glad it wasn’t any further – apparently it’s 36 degrees. We weren’t terribly impressed with Logrono at first. We had just one night there which was definitely enough – by the time we left I felt it was a bit nicer than we had at first thought, the old central part of town was nice enough, but I wouldn’t ever go out of my way to go there.
We are following the Camino route by bus – not intentionally really, but as we’re picking up the walk again in a week at Sarria we’re going in that direction anyway. Rather glad we’re not walking it – much of the path is alongside the road and we can see it from the bus. Trying very hard not to feel smug – really I am.
Pamplona
The muscles were still complaining this morning. You know that “listen to your body” rule… well, I was listening but I didn’t like what I was hearing so I chose to ignore it. For heaven’s sake all we’re doing is walking! Were glad to be leaving Zubiri as we passed the Magna factory on the way out and got back out into the countryside, looking forward to seeing Pamplona and no more walking for a whole week! Then, about 3 kms in and halfway up a hill, PING!!! Aaaaaah Ooooow F@#*!!!!!! Calf muscle tear. Hobbled on a bit further hoping it was nothing and would come right. Sat down to put some tape around it that Didi had with her and some nice French ladies squirted some Voltaren cream on my leg and I set off to give it another go. Realised very quickly that this was bad so had to make a decision – 17kms on to Pamplona with a serious (painful) limp or 4kms back to Zubiri to get a taxi. Handed walking notes and guide book to Didi who carried on and turned back. Hobbled all the way back – passed several walkers on the way back – they were the stragglers who’d started out late and many of them were in a worse state than I was judging by the way they were limping along. Can’t believe they just carry on! Dedication or idiocy?
To cut a slightly longer story short, after nearly 2 hours getting back and finding someone to help in Zubir,i finally got someone in one of the albergues to phone a taxi which arrived within half hour. Then a 20 minute trip into Pamplona and 24euros later I’m safely delivered to our hotel. Relief. Tried to book a second night at the hotel so we don’t have to move tomorrow but they’re full. Bugger.
Di texts to say she’s only about 5 kms out so will see me soon. She turns up a couple of hours later having been wandering around Pamplona getting lost for the last hour, poor thing! The map was attached to the hotel voucher which I needed in order to check in. The patchy instructions she'd jotted down weren't very helpful.
Decide to hobble down to the Plaza and get some well-earned, cold cervezas. Yay! the hotel tells us as we go out that they’ve got a room for us tomorrow after all! Find a Farmacia and get some strapping for my calf. Early night after Paella for tea.
Didn’t do a lot in Pamplona on account of being a cripple. Still managed to have a wander around the town and saw most things I think. Nice enough place. I know it’s claim to fame is the running of the bulls that happens in July. Our hotel room looked right over the street where the bulls run so would be in a prime spot at that time. The bull fighting ring was just around the corner. There was a huge protest happening while we were there and the police presence was very strong. My, they have big guns here. Also a scary heavily armed squad in helmets and balaclavas. It was a very peaceful protest with lots of families and children but I don’t think anyone would dare to misbehave.
We met a couple of ladies from San Francisco and they joined us for dinner. Hi, Mary and Kathy, if you happen to read this! Paella again and the biggest G&Ts I’ve ever seen! Since seen these being poured at many cafes in Spain – they bring the whole bottle out and pour into enourmous glasses at the table. Fabulous. Mary and Kathy were also doing part of the camino and we tried to help them out with travel plans for the next day as we have laptops with us. There are a number of times we’ve cursed the extra weight of carting these around with us but they have really come into their own when it comes to pre-booking accommodation and researching transport options. Anyway, turned out we weren’t much help in the end, but we tried. Thank you for lovely bottle of bubbly you shared with us.
Booked bus tickets to Logrono for the next day.
Friday 1st June
Logrono
Our first experience travelling on Spanish buses so didn’t know what to expect. It’s all extremely easy and efficient. The bus is more of a coach really, very comfortable. Departed Pamplona exactly on time and arrived in Logrono exactly on time too, about 1 hour 45 mins from memory. All for 7,50. The hotel was close enough to walk to but glad it wasn’t any further – apparently it’s 36 degrees. We weren’t terribly impressed with Logrono at first. We had just one night there which was definitely enough – by the time we left I felt it was a bit nicer than we had at first thought, the old central part of town was nice enough, but I wouldn’t ever go out of my way to go there.
We are following the Camino route by bus – not intentionally really, but as we’re picking up the walk again in a week at Sarria we’re going in that direction anyway. Rather glad we’re not walking it – much of the path is alongside the road and we can see it from the bus. Trying very hard not to feel smug – really I am.

Comments
Mmm paella! Limping of the calves lol! Very picturesque . Hope you feeling better!