Margaret River
Trip Start
Apr 30, 2004
1
64
88
Trip End
Jan 28, 2005
Margaret River, Australia
Friday, November 12, 2004
Heavy overnight rain and a cool (17C) and cloudy day equalled poor visibility at the end of the pier underwater observatory, so we didn't go. Instead an hours drive took us to the busy town of Margaret River where we relocated to yet another cabin.
Taking its name from the Margaret River which runs the 10km from town to the ocean, this is a fast developing area, and with 50 wineries and at least 20 surf locations all within half an hours drive, its hardly surprising.
The beach at the end of the Margaret River is called Prevelly. We parked in the carpark that was full of surfers utes and watched an hour of top surfing. The waves were huge and breaking onto some sort of reef, so this was no place for a play on a boogie board.
Surfing legends and champions have described the wave at Margaret River as one of the finest in the world, so it was a good place to watch. All the surfers seem to have three things in common: the ute (pick up truck), a faithful dog who waits on the beach, an obsession with surfing. Apparently they surf before work, after work and regularly instead of work.
Further up the Caves Road coastroad we stopped at Gracetown and enjoyed more spectacular coastal scenery, but there's only so much white sand, turquoise water and rugged cliffs you can take in one day.
At a deserted carpark, Rene walked slowly into the ladies loo and seconds later sprinted out gasping for breath. I ran over and Rene pointed to the far cubicle and said 'it's in the corner'. She wasn't hyperventilating so I knew it wasn't a snake. I ran back and got the camera.
If a lizard could look more like a stumpy snake I'd like to meet him. He was sat right in the corner with a very slowly dripping tap right above him. He had a head of a snake and every time I inched closer his mouth opened wide and a large dark blue tongue slowly poked out at me. He was superb, but wasn't budging, Rene had lost the urge anyway.
Back in Margaret River, lots of locals were still out celebrating following the running of the Melbourne Cup earlier in the day. It's a huge event here and people dress up as if going to Ascot to watch it in the local bar. Mackybe Diva won for the second year running.
Another horses ass who won a race today was George Dubya Bush. God help America.
Expenses: Accom69, CD 12.95, smarket 20.45, wine 9, inet 1.50
Day 190 - Wed November 3rd
Five minutes out of Margaret River is the Eagles Heritage Raptor Wildlife Centre, and being lovers of birds of prey we had to go take a look. In conjunction with the Society for the Preservation of Raptors (SPR), the centre receives in excess of 200 injured and orphaned birds of prey each year from all over Western Australia. SPR handle most of the initial care and treatment of these birds, then Eagles Heritage are responsible for the rehab and release of these magnificent creatures.
Opened in 1987 the centre is set amongst 29 acres of natural bushland. We walked the 1km aptly named wildflower trail, where over 80 birds of prey housed in specially designed bush pole aviaries. We saw Grass, Barking, Boobook, Tawny Frogmouth and Barn owls. Square tailed, Whistling, Black breasted and Brahminy Kites. Grey Goshawks, Marsh Harriers, Australian Little Falcons, Peregrine Falcons and Little eagles. My favourite though, was a massive Wedge tailed eagle with a 2.5 metre wingspan. They are the biggest Australian bird of prey and the longest wingspan recorded was 2.8m. Thats virtually a light aircraft. This particulalr bird had been released 5 times by the centre, but keeps on comong back.
Birds of prey are much misunderstood and maligned in Australia. For the last 30 years Australia has stood alone in the world as being the only country where its not illegal to shhot or kill an eagle. Two states, Northern Territory and in the last month New South Wales, have banned the practice, but everywhere else its fine.
Scientists have estimated that between them birds of prey, snakes and lizards kill in excess of 100 trillion rats and mice a year in Australia, so its probably best not to kill them all off.
Highlight of the morning was Red dog, a black winged kite, who was born at the centre and is used for demonstrations. She is wild but trusts her handler and is released each day to hunt in the surrounding forest, but she always comes back. One at a time we were allowed to don the leather gauntlet and have Red dog perch on our hand. She was magnificent. Her eyes were the same colour as Renes, but 2.5 times more powerful and she sees with 8 times more resolution or detail. If she could read, which wouldn't surprise me, Red dog could read a newspaper headline from a mile away.
Three other kites were released for feeding, the handler placed bits of meat on the palm of his hand and held it up in the air. One of the kites would swoop down at full speed, talons first, and take it off his palm without touching his skin, their eyesight is that good.
While the feeding was taking place a Peregrine Falcon appeared in a tree behind. Totally wild, he turns up regularly for a snack. They are the fastest bird of prey reaching speeds of 240km/hour. This was demonstrated by the man with the meat throwing a tiny piece towards us 30 yards away, before it reached us the Peregrine Falcon had left its perch, divebombed and caught the meat. All in the blink of an eye, it was astonishing.
A great morning in a centre doing top quality work.
We drove north on the coast to Yallingup where we sat in the car like a pair of pensioners and ate our sarnies while overlooking another beautiful bay. Its really pretty cold at the moment otherwise we'd be sat on the beach and messing in the sea. We did have a good walk on the desserted beach though.
On the return from Yallingup we stopped at a small cheese factory for a bit of a sampling and purchased a tiny wedge of delicious camembert. We also visited the Vasse Felix vineyard where we didn't sample, but rest assured we will tomorrow on our wine tour.
Expenses: Accom 69, fuel 43.15, cheese 5.10, inet 3, smarket 12.10, eagles 18
Day 191 - Thursday 4th November
Perfect weather and ideal soil conditions means the Margeret River region has become renowned around the world for its premium wines. There are now over 60 wineries in the area and we began our 'Wine for Dudes' tour (highly recommended) at the large and classy Leeuwin Estate, where amongst others we sampled their '2001 Art Series Chardonnay' which has been voted as one of the worlds best.
Once we'd nosed and quaffed we simultaneously mentioned the long and complex palate and the lingering clean citrus finish. Similar to a 76 blue Nun, but way more expensive at $73 per bottle.
The first vines in Margaret River were only planted in 1967. Now everywhere we drive the fields are full of neat rows of vines. Today, many dairy farmers are turning their land over to wine production, it's a big, expanding business.
Voyager Estate was our second stop, where we swirled, inhaled and a swallowed a 1998 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon $58. Mature, mellow, we were smelling leather and spice with dark berries, mocha and earthy overtones. Classic cabernet fruit on the palete, soft, supple tannins and immense complexity. Cedar and choclolate dominate with a long persistant finish. It put Rene in mind of a Moffitts Victoria Road Estate 1983 Garage Strawberry which had a long persistent after effect.
Each winery had six wines to try, usually their top notch tipples, so joking aside the wine was sensational.
With only 8 on the tour, we were flying along, literally. Next stop was Palandri where we had a good lunch and more tasting. The late harvest Riesling was sweet and sickly and the only one all day that wasn't pleasant. It's sweet citrus, ripe peach and juicy apricot flavours dominated the palate like a 1988 liebfraumilch.
The last two estate, Madfish / Howard Park and Juniper were a bit of a blur, our intelligent questions had dried up and everyone was resorting to 'mmmmm, that ones good'.
Returned to Margaret River, we were glowing with a cedary, cotton woolly head, a complection of ripe berry fruit, and a complex overtone of old trainer and Yates Wine Lodge.
An old soakes tea of camembert cheese biscuits was followed by a ridiculously ealry night. Sleep was deep.
Expenses: Accom 69, wine tour 110, laundry 3, inet 1
