The Quiet Alentejo
Trip Start
Jun 30, 2010
1
4
5
Trip End
Ongoing
Vila Viçosa, Évora, Portugal
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
We left the valley and ventured toward the border. We decided to make a quick detour through a pastoral road and venture into Alburquerque. I have longed to see the sister city of my birthplace and feel a connection to my conquistador ancestors. This pueblo has the requisite castle set atop the highest point. The buildings are whitewashed, recalling the characteristic Spanish postcard photo, and it has an ancient center with cobbled streets that were laid by hand, and not a citizen in sight for it was siesta time. Quiet beauty.
As we trekked into Portugal, not much distinguished the two countries apart, say for the international sign announcing our arrival. Our destination was Vila Vicosa, a quaint village that is the jewel in the crown of this remote landscape. It sits outside a major marble quarry and as a result, every street, every nook, every detail is lined in smooth white stone. We stayed in a state-run hotel called a Pousada. Pousadas are castles, monasteries and other buildings that are converted into historical hotels. Much like Paradors in Spain, I highly recommend this form of accommodation. One gets the amenities of a 4 star hotel and lodging in a historical building at very reasonable prices. Ours was a converted 15th century monastery. I swear it was haunted as Juan and I both had trouble sleeping our first night there. No kidding, I heard things…just saying.
The next day we set off for Evora. This is the biggest village in the area. As the home of a Roman temple of Diana, the Portuguese are sure to capitalize on this impressive site. The columns, still intact, extend upwards, oblivious to the modern cars speeding by. Centuries of humanity have made sure that we can still enjoy this awesome monument.
Then it was off to Redondo, Elvas, Estremoz, and Borba, just one white washed marbled town upon another. Grapevines for kilometers, rolling hills and cows at pasture were the highlights of this lazy drive. We returned to the pousada and settled into the cloister for dinner consisting of bacalao, bacalao and more bacalao. Did you know that bacalao is the unofficial national fish of Portugal?
Juan asked me why I chose to adventure into the Alentejo this summer. I wanted to get as far away from the hustle of every day life and escape. Mission accomplished.
