Back in the bush
Trip Start
Dec 26, 2009
1
62
95
Trip End
Dec 22, 2010
Parque nacional amboro, Santa Cruz, Bolivia
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
When one is forwarding through a river in the middle of a Bolivian rain forest, wearing nothing but undies and a long sleeve shirt, pack held overhead, watching two park rangers and his guide sitting on river side rocks, chewing coco and listening to the final of the football world cup. When that said person is halfway across, then slips over submerging himself and his belongings under water, before re-emerging with everything intact, to the sound of a Spainish world cup win over a small hand held radio.
What else is there to do, but smile and appreciate the uniqueness of that said moment?
I was in Parque Nacional Amboro, normally home to an abundant amount of wild life. However,after the first day, there was a strange cold snap in the weather, sending this supposed wildlife scrambling into their shelters. But that's nature for you... I suppose it makes it all the more inspiring when you do experiance it.
"You need to watch out for any, how do you say in English, de, fe, vee um", "oh you mean bees?" he held his hand up, his fingers spread 5cm wide, nodding his head in agreement "yeah bees"... I was temporally speechless "you have bees that big, fuck me...." apparently they can send you into a 24 hour fever. I did have an encounter with this so called bee, a fever wasn't caught, but wow do they hurt.
Standing by a river bed, I heard this sound which can only be described as a deep, swirling, howling vibration similar to that of an airplane, but only emitted from one location. I looked towards my guide in confusement "what on earth?", "oh that noise is coming from howling monkeys, maybe about 1km away and probably 4 or 5 of them" this phenomenal sound was very impressive. Sadly I didn't get to see them, but I haven't lost hope for future encounters.
I tried everything in my power to not use a guide, as I feel comfortable enough amongst the trees without one, Amazon or not. But with no maps, public transport and signage, I had no choice but to use one. I tired to relax and enjoy the ride, but it was to strange for me. Somebody else carrying the food, cooking, cleaning, navigating and setting up the tent; It felt like part of my dignity had been taken away.
I feel I'm to much of an independent person to rely on somebody else. I need my freedom of choice. I think this is why after six and a half months of traveling, I'm still going strong solo. Many other solo starters have entered into groups or couples. Don't get me wrong, I'm not some sort of anti social hermit. I'm always keen for a good conversation. laugh, a few beers etc. I think I have just found a balance between the two extremes..
However In saying that, I did enjoy my time with my guide Jose; sitting in front of the fire chatting about Bolivian culture through the chewing sound of coco.
"¿su ir a la captura de peces con carne? " (Your going to catch fish with beef?) I asked the Carlos the park ranger " Si claro" he looked at me as if I has just asked the stupidest question in the world, before inserting the beef onto a large hook and propelling the bait into the river.
After a few interestingly funny conversations chewing coco over the fire with the park rangers, we were soon good friends. There personalities similar to that of my old army friends; swear words being the common fill in word for each sentence, the topics of choice continuously "crossing the line" in which society would normally cringe at and an impressive supply or porn magazines. This atmosphere and the rain forest all felt very similar and comfortable for me. My friends back home in NZ continuously cross the line" so much so, I don't think that line even exists anymore. I do prefer this then uncomfortable awkwardness and over politeness any day.
We had no luck with the fish that day (maybe because they were trying to catch fish with beef?, hay I'm just putting it out there) "cuando usted esta pescando, tienes que ser paciente","when you are fishing, you need to be patient," Carlos whispered. I laughed to myself, he had no idea how many times Ive herd that from my dad, Brain. Actually when I fish or see someone else fishing, I'm always reminded of dad. He would love it here, right in his element; walking through forests, crossing rivers, enjoying the tranquility of it all, that is fishing.
The entry and exit to the park was an experience in itself, only accessible by four wheeled drive and even then at times, parts were pretty dodgy. So when I jumped on the park rangers dirt bike with him and our two packs, I knew I was in for an interesting exit. Frashing through mud, crossing rivers, falling over numerous times and even coming 1" from a horses hind leg. We were laughing so much, it was hurting. I hadn't laughed like that in a while.
