Croatia: The land for all Sea-Sons
Trip Start
Oct 16, 2007
1
69
70
Trip End
Dec 16, 2007
Kremik, Šibensko-Kniniska, Croatia
Friday, October 21, 2011
Inside jokes that would be lost in translation.
Finally, we hit the deck on The Spotty Dog and our sea adventure was underway. Aside from a paucity of wind which meant more motoring than we wanted, the weather was spectacular. The Maestrale - yes, I finally experienced the mighty Mistral - kicked in at the end of the week and we started to haul.
To do it again we thought we might leave from a different port. We also thought that since beginning and ending in the same port limited the distance we could travel in the time we had, we'd recommend starting somewhere and then heading north or south to end up somewhere completely different for the best coverage and sightseeing.
How can I describe to you day after day of sunshine, the renlentless NW to SW force of the Mistral, or green to blue waters punctuated with an occasional sailfish, friendly dolphins and the plethora of tuna in all sizes! Snorkeling was crystal clear and yielded thousands of fish albeit not as colorful as you might find in the Mediterranean. We had to be on the constant look out for those spiny sea urchins but occasional that vigilance helped you spot a small octopus or starfish. Yes, how can I describe the interesting mooring mates - some X rated?
Sailing is an activity that you have to experience to really understand (just like steps, but more to follow). You are confined in a small space with several people who are all headed in the same direction - by necessity and not choice. Everything you do is much more orchestrated and consolidated in this floating environment. Bathing, cooking, and sleeping take on an entire new dimension. It is a world of pumps, holding tanks, propane, and drawer locks. It is an exercise in balance and sure footedness. When you are with great people, as I was, it is also an exercise in cooperation and camaraderie.
Whether you are watching a school of tuna, sharing a great sailing book (Har, your mom has good taste!), discussing Tristan Jones or your kids latest accomplishment or failure, hanging your whatevers out to dry, trying to beg an extra square, or washing your hair and bathing with an audience, you are doing it as a group project. It is a wonderful experience in family living. I can tell you as someone who lives alone and gets her own coffee each day, what a pleasure it was when the breakfast duty group handed you a fresh cup of hot perked coffee - even though we quickly converted to instant for efficiency.
And speaking of efficiency, it was wonderful being with competent, caring, thoughtful adults. There was always an extra hand or another idea which made for an easy day to day yin and yang. If only our elected officials could operate with such good end results. Maybe we should stick them in a small space and have them share a 5 X 4 bathroom. Or have them try to successfully moor a 50 foot sailboat in the rocks and then sit, with drinks in hand, watching those late arrivals try the same task in the dark.
Some mysteries may never be solved like what happened to the vinegar. Are you sure someone didn't try to drink it and think it was swill? And Jim, my apologies for using all the Olive oil but then Ante did use more than his share. And then thanks for all the new found musical knowledge - I've already ordered the CD's although my younger friends just shake their heads and tell me I'm so passee and that I should just be downloading.
And, for the record, "Seas are smaller than oceans and are usually located where the land and ocean meet. Typically seas are partially enclosed by land."
Most of all thank you for the wonderful companionship. The ongoing interchange that is so much fun when you have a historical basis to build on. The personal conversations that ended with much felt support. And the comfortable silences.
And so I have come full circle. We cabbed to Split where the back pack exchange occurred and where Sue and I found Viagra for sale in the market - advertised by a hand written cardboard sign. And then on to the bus and the winding roads until we were dropped off at the port next to one of the floating cities. And now for the best stair story.
I had tried to find our final lodging site, Ava Apartment, when I was in Dubrovnik the first time. I had gone up 100 steps, down 50, up 75, down another 50 - street after street - but all to no avail. I had met numerous helpful Croatians but no apartmani. Oh well, we would find it when we returned. Well, after our 6 hour bus ride and as the sun had set in the west, the taxi dropped us off on the main road just a little north of my previous search site and we hiked for several minutes with our suitcases - UP and DOWN stairs. Let me just say, 1586 steps later and some help from a wonderful group of college exchange students from the east coast (who almost had some new roommates), some passing Croatians, and several residents who actually lived off of these alleys situated on steps that I'm sure ended somewhere in Heaven, we got the brilliant idea to try the second address.
Two of us set out in the dark and imagine our disappointment when upon arriving (only 324 more steps but then who was counting) to find a young woman who informed us that she had no idea what we were looking for and that she had no room. As we were leaving Petar appeared from the building next door and asked us if we might be the English.
" No, the Americans," we answered.
Well, it was good enough. We had found the place and NOW, it was back to get our comrades and the suitcases -- only 320 steps because we took the short cut. SIGH.
We slept well except for sounds of the Croatians partying and singing into the night that drifted up from the city, our aching legs, and the constant banging of the shutters with the cooler Mistral making itself known. But the view and the moon were wonderful.
Our last day was again filled with my new Croatian best friends helping us secure a ride to the airport (where did they find that dependable, talented, driver who could execute those cliff side roads at 4:30 AM?), migraine meds from my new best friend the Croatian pharmacist whom I found with the help of my new best friend at one of my favorite stores, and the successful use of our phone card thanks to my new best young friend from the interactive museum. And I can't forget the enjoyable chat I had with my new best friend Anna and her husband who sat with me overlooking the harbor and shared their story of living in American - Chicago! - and their eventual return to their home of Croatia because of the comprehensive health care coverage it afforded them. What a lovely time and a wonderful story. We also found a little time to share health care opinions and some politics.
And so I got to the airport, navigated among the hundreds of people who were leaving one of the floating cities - I can see the future - and headed on to Zagreb. From there I flew to Amsterdam, another airport that I like and walked the halls browsing the tulips, wonderful glassware and some of my favorite European products. On the final leg of my trip, I was fortunate to sit next to a lovely young woman who had just shared a week with her husband in Germany. He is in the Guard and the commonality of his prior deployments made for an introduction before we progressed to family and her many talents. I hope you are reading this AND pursing some of them!
Travel, how it stretches you and makes you realize your metal. But AHHHHH, it's always good to be home in your own bed. Mud and all.
Congratulations Tracy and Maggie, I so enjoyed laughing with the two of you until my sides ached. It doesn't happen often enough. Your pictures were greatly appreciated Tracy. Sue, I'm making my way through some of your wonderful book recommendations and planning a time for the big dump dinner although I think it woud be more fun with you. And BTW I'm searching for a proofreader and for Bob, whoever and wherever he is.
Comments
Oh my friend, you defintely have a gift with words and pictures....living through your trips makes me realize how sheltered I am as far as travel goes