Takaka Hill and Golden Bay

  Takaka, New Zealand
Sunday, December 23, 2007

Day 3 - Wandering around Golden Bay - ~200 kms

The weather continues brilliant.  Where's all this rain we heard so much about?  Should've brought more shorts.......

We drive up Takaka Hill, which is not at all frightening once you've been to Kaiteriteri. 



Stop at several lookouts on the way up for photos, including Hawke's Lookout, where we find a group of Scandanavian campervanners waking up.  The sun is wrong for photos here, so we decide to stop on the way back.  The hike up to the lookout was not too difficult, only one stop to catch my breath.  Well worth it for the views all the way to Nelson on this fine day.  We were impressed that some genius had put chicken wire on the boardwalks for better traction on rainy days.  There is also a long drop here, for those in need.  That would be an outhouse-style toilet, for the uninitiated....

We go over another pass and encounter our first one-lane bridge.  Yet another example of Kiwi frugality - on these low-traffic roads, what's the point of putting up a two-laner and wasting all those resources?  Given what we spend on roads in Wisconsin that are only heavily used at the rush hours, I am impressed.  The Isite in Takaka is another good one.   



I laugh out loud at the "What to Expect on Golden Bay Roads" sign.  We get a tide chart and move on.



Our next stop is the Grove Scenic Reserve.  This is our first official hike, but what a beauty. 




The tropical plants made it seem like a jungle, but the split rock formations and giant boulders reminded me of glaciated glens that I have hiked through back home.  The narrow passageway leading up to the overlook of Golden Bay was well worth the effort, and I had another catch-my-breath stop on this hike.  Scott wanted to go around again!



We try to follow the map to Golden Bay Salami, but we get turned around.  Eventually, we come across it and buy some with Tata chilis in it and some beef sticks, which are all VERY good. 



They also have a shop on the highway, if you don't go up to the Reserve.  It appeared to be right next door on the map, but jet lag and topography can combine to distort reality quite nicely!

The next stop is Wainui Falls, another walk we had read about on TA.  The drive out is unbelievable; the road hugs the coastline as we marvel at first Ligar and then Walnut Bay. 



There are some people around, but it is not crowded.  Everyone must be working on their tans at their bachs.  

The walk to the falls and return is advertised as 2 hours, so we bring water and hats, slather on the sun block, and take to the trail.  The first stretch is in the sun along a pasture, but we can see the hills in the distance and know what we are in for.  The initial climb is gentle along the lower part of the river, and it is pleasant.  There are two reminder signs, telling you how much farther you have to go, in case you are tiring.

We begin to work a little harder, going up and over rocks and roots.  I stopped 3 times total to catch my breath on this side of the river.  There's a bench to rest on, which was kind of someone to drag all the way in here.  We round a corner and - surprise! - a swing bridge!





This is a narrow one, only one foot wide.  I take a deep breath when our turn comes, and focus on the other end.  Even with the wind trying to blow my hat off, it is not too bad.  That's probably why no one mentioned it, because they knew folks would be dissuaded if they worried about it up front.  From then on, they were much easier to take, and I actually looked out at the scenery while crossing.

We can hear the falls now, and there's just one more hill to get over before we are there.  It's a little more slippery here, and I wish I had worn my heavy-duty boots.  Slow and steady gets me to the full view of the falls, which are stupendous. 



Sitting on the rocks, we watch a guy with a tripod and an SLR try to get the sun just right.  We are not so fussy!

Coming back down was quicker, since we knew what to expect.  A large group of Aussies that we had met on the way up were swimming in one of the pools on the way back.  Very cold, but very refreshing, no doubt.  We are ready for lunch, and head out to Onekaka and the Mussel Inn.  I feel like I am in Big Sur for about the 10th time today!  This place is hippie paradise.  You can get feijoa hard cider on tap, they make their own beer, and the food is all from scratch with local ingredients wherever possible.  There is even live music in the evenings.  

We sit outside in the shade and wolf down our lunch. I have my first savory pie, beef and ox, and a ginger beer, while Scott has his second batch of mussels. There are other Americans on the verandah also remarking how California-like this place is.  I hate to label it as such, because there is a definite Kiwi attitude about it, too.  I guess it's natural to compare places to things you know!



Next stop is the Pupu Springs, which are not to be missed.  The walk is easy and short, through a wide variety of vegetation.  The only hard part is up the hill back to the car park, and it's not strenuous.  No huffing and puffing for either of us.  Maybe we are acclimating?  When you see a springs system that produces 40 bathtubs full of water every SECOND, your jaw just has to drop.  Well signed and informative markers along the trail.  I learned a lot on this trip.

We stop in Takaka on our way back south and load up on souvenirs.  It's great to find things from winter at half-price.  These will be great gifts in January back home. Over the big hill again, stop for the now-perfect shots of the valley at Hawke's Lookout and back to the Top 10 for laundry, dinner, and rest.