Fiords and waterfalls of Milford

Trip Start Jan 01, 2010
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Trip End Mar 04, 2011


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Flag of New Zealand  , South Island,
Friday, July 23, 2010

I have never had the misfortune of sharing a room with a guy who snores quite as bad as the wierdo who woke me up at 3am. In exasperation I put my ear plugs in in the middle of the night which unfortunately worked a little too well and I ended up sleeping through my alarm. I only got up in time for my trip to Milford because I was going with a friend who woke me up 15 minutes before we had to get to the bus stop. At least the backpackers opened out straight to a balcony which meant you were instantly awake as soon as you left the room as a blast of freezing air hit you. It doesn't get light until about 7 45 so it was completely dark both mornings when I had to get up early for buses.
   It was a long day on the bus with two journeys before breaks. Of course they stopped in allocated cafes to encourage people to spend their money. After three hours driving we eventually arrived at Milford via some stunning scenary. Huge mountains rose on either side of the road as we navigated the windy but mainly flat road at the bottom. We went through a tunnel built through the bottom of a mountain. It just makes you realise the fortitude of those people drafted to build it in the heights of the Great Depression. I am so glad I went to that exhibition in Sydney about the effect of the Depression and what people had to do to find work...it makes you realise how lucky we are even in our own economic meltdown.
    We eventually wound our way through the valleys past Mirror Lake which is exactly how it sounds...a lake which reflects the mountains in the background. Unfortunately for most of the journey those mountains were covered in mist then as that cleared the clouds crept in. We did get non stop commentary from the bus driver which was informative if it didn't drive you nuts by the end of the trip.
   The cruise through to the Tasman sea was pretty spectacular notwithstanding the first bit was overtaken by thoughts of food and the massive buffet. There was a significant change in the sea as we left the secluded cove behind and entered the open sea. As we were tossed up and down by the swell I did spare a thought for those early mariners who found this place in their 17th Centuary ships. Apparently it was originally spotted by Captain Cook but not 'discovered' until later. Because there hadn't been rain for over a week the waterfalls were more like damp bits of rock rather than rushing cascades of water. We did get to see a couple of waterfalls earlier in the journey and the rocks which had been carved into incricate shapes by the power of the water. We also saw Keas which are mountain parrots...amazing that something that colourful can live somewhere that cold. 
    The benefit of having a guide was we also learnt about the farms or homestays as we passed them...amazingly huge sheep farms stretched for as far as the eye could see in either direction. Pretty harsh lifestyle running a farm in these days with thousands of sheep but also what a place to live with amazing scenary and solitude to great you every day. We also learnt of the devastating effect introduced species are having on the countryside. I didn't realise that NZ originally had no native mammels except a fruit bat. Or the effect the introduced rabits, deer and stoats are having on the landscape.  
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africabase on

Absolutely spectacular and great to see from the water

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