Da Likeng/"Big" Likeng

Trip Start Apr 19, 2011
1
9
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Trip End May 04, 2011


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Flag of China  , Jiangxi,
Thursday, April 28, 2011

The names of the two Likeng villages are actually the opposite of what they are like. Small Likeng is the bigger village and definitely inundated with tourists. “Big” Likeng, however, is smaller, quieter and much more natural. This is what we were expecting and hoping for when we came to the region. We took a village bus here from Wuyuan which took about an hour. You would think we'd be sick of all the transportation changes but really the views are the payoff. The drive here was breathtaking. Once we got to Da Likeng there were only 4 of us left on the bus :) The woman taking the money on the bus was the wife of the driver and they invited us to stay at their place. I was a little hesitant at first because I assumed it was like everywhere else – a high price for the first place offered. But once we pulled up to the gate of the village I realized this was going to be a different experience entirely. We accepted her offer and followed her to her house down one of the alleys/hutongs
Entrance to DaLikeng
Entrance to DaLikeng
. Here, there really are no streets. Only stone or dirt paths wind through the small, white-washed buildings and only a motorcycle can fit. Even those are few here. The woman's home is two-story, as are all the buildings here, and very basic. Before we head out on a walk she asks us what time we want to eat that evening and assures us it will be prepared by her and ready whenever we'd like.


Da Likeng is perfect. The surroundings are gorgeous and the setting is peaceful. No tour groups or electronic megaphones here. Not a single one. Actually there are no major signs of tourist activity at all – other than a more “modern” style hotel across the river. And by modern I mean that its outer walls have been freshly painted and there is a sign out front. We take our time walking through town (takes about 3 minutes) and head out into the countryside. We sit for a bit with our feet in the water and just take it all in. Women are washing their clothes in the river, some are up in the hills picking tea, there are a few local artists sitting under a small umbrella sketching what lies before them. It's impossible to feel rushed or anxious here. The evening meal is delicious and fresh and full of veggies. We have good conversation with our host and the one other guest staying there – a Chinese young woman from Shanghai – before taking our coffee and tea to the roof top to gaze at the stars and simply enjoy the quiet evening
River of DaLikeng
River of DaLikeng
. We're even able to shower that night...with a combination of a shower hose and a basin. The water from the hose was scalding hot so you had to pour it into a basin and join it with cold water from the sink before dumping it over your head. It didn't matter...we were fresh and clean.

 

I woke again early this morning in order to catch the sunrise and the serenity of the morning. I took a walk by myself through the “streets” and into the fields before returning to the home to sit on the roof top balcony and drink my morning coffee. I could get used to this! We'll enjoy the morning around here before we get on the village bus at 10a to return to Wuyuan. Then it's a bus back to JiuJiang to catch our train tonight at 6 to Qingdao...our last stop. Can't say we're looking forward to the hard seats for 17 hours...
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