Basic Instincts (by MAPG)
Trip Start Aug 11, 2009
69Trip End Feb 19, 2010
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Once we got to Rurrenabaque we quickly forgot about the bumpy road. It is the excitement about doing one of the two tours available: jungle or pampas. With the Brazilian Pantanal "stamp" still not dry enough (very similar to the pampas), it was the mighty jungle we wanted to add to our log book. At least two nights are necessary for this experience. Access is only done by boat and takes three hours from Rurrenabaque.
After finding the right tour operator (it was luckily recommended to us by an American we met on the Uyuni trip) we set off, just the two of us in a boat. Our first stop was a small indigenous community living of a sugar cane plantation. After we drank some freshly self-pressed juice, we continued our journey to the lodges of our travel agency. The latter was basically consisting in a large indigenous family (mom and pap were over 80 and had 11 children). Back in the 80ies, papa jungle was one of the few who insisted around the administration in La Paz to stop the slaughter of animals for commercial purposes that took place in today's Madidi Park
During the three days we spent there, we had an intense program. We started with a two hours trekk in the surroundings of the camp, and we ended by floating back to the camp after a night spent just under our mosquito net in the rain forest. Other activities included a trip to see a rock full of macaws’ nests, trekking at daylight and in the pitch black night only with a flashlight. After the lights went off, everything suddenly was reduced to hearing and smelling. Our guide massively relied on these two senses to trace animals. There was no reward without patience, with even the loudest monkey stopping to sing after 10 minutes long hit when we were 100 m away from the tree it used as a stage. The tribute paid to nature for the great experiences consisted in numerous bugs invasions & bites. Everything was accompanied by a fabulous local cuisine. Our cook even managed to do a great job when cooking in the middle of the jungle. The coup consisted in a 10 kg big fish, obviously coming from the river crossing the jungle.
In the end we did not regret a bit the effort of getting there, and even the sceptic of the two of us was impressed.