Stepperiders, Terelj and beyond

Trip Start Jul 25, 2011
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Trip End Ongoing


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Flag of Mongolia  , Central Aimak,
Monday, October 10, 2011

In life they say there are few certainties; in fact, likely these same folks claim that the only certainties in life are Death and Taxes.  Having spent over 2 months in Mongolia to date, with a couple adventures to the outskirts of Ulaanbaatar and beyond, I would add yet one more certainty – a man (or woman for that matter) untrained on the intricacies and proper styles of riding a horse, will suffer for days to come.  Being from Texas, with buddies whom own horses, how is it I never grasped that concept?

It is now mid October 2011 here in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia.  The weather is cooling down, and several weeks past we experienced our first snow of the year.  Fortunately, that snow has left us and the days have been for the most part pleasant with brilliant sunshine, chilled weather and blue skies.  Not to mention continued congested traffic filling the streets of the country's capital.  We anticipate or expect the temperatures to drop any day now, as locals indicate this is the time for the seasons to turn. 

What to expect in weeks and months to come – likely the same blue, radiant skies with temperatures progressively reaching as low as minus 35 (that’s right – minus 35 Celcius, which for you Fahrenheit users is approximately the same on the celcius/Fahrenheit scales).  Needless to say, preparations for such intense weather seem feeble, but we will see what can be done.  Its not the temperature which concerns me, but more so the winter pollution which I keep hearing is of true concern.  More on that soon enough, but needless to say the 2 industrial air purifiers in the apartment are already running at 3/4 speed due to the outside air already smelling remarkably like a camp fire.  The face masks will be utilized sooner than I thought…

The work which brought me here, to date, continues along, and the US funded project which I continue to support is making strides.  Given the mandate of this USAID project (the 'Business Plus Initiative’) is 5 years in duration, our project should have plenty of time to effect change, in hopes of promoting private sector development within the country.  For those that are not aware or following world economic trends, Mongolia represents one of the most rapidly developing economies globally.  It is foreseen that the country will experience upwards of 10% GDP per capita growth year upon year through 2020.  Ranked second behind Turkmenistan (I recently read this country is experiencing nearly 30% annual GDP growth) in terms of economic growth prospects, it should prove interesting to see what develops over the next year, much less five years.

Moving on…  The past several weeks since last post or entry, have not been spent solely in the office.  While there has been considerable work accomplished, there as well has been effort(s) to enjoy a social scene and the seeming endless places outside the capital of UB.  One weekend, I was invited to play in a corporate golf event in national park Terelj by a former colleague and good friend Tim O Neill, whom I worked with and for back in Kosovo during 2000-02.  Needless to say, serious golfers need not consider a trip to Mongolia to partake of the 18 holes at the Terelj National Golf Club; however, it was an enjoyable time slogging away at a round.  Highlights:  1) 18 artificial greens with putt putt type grass making for a challenging approach shot and putting, and 2) watching enormous black crows stealing golf balls from the middle of the fairway on several occasions.  

Perhaps even more enjoyable were a couple trips out to ger camps both on the outskirts of Ulaanbaatar but as well in the National Park of Terelj.  A small tourist camp called ‘SteppeRiders’ outside of UB enabled 8 of us an opportunity to head out for a day of enjoyment on horseback; given this was my second time on horseback in country, I asked for the ‘fast’ horse from the local guide.  Little did I know that ‘fast’ equated to non-stoppable, and thus my compatriots for the day truly enjoyed watching my inability to stop my ride from galloping across the steppes.  

Another weekend found a group of friends heading to ‘Bert’s Ger Camp’, a ger camp owned by a Dutch owner and located in Terelj.  Six of us headed to Bert’s place for a 2 day/1 nite experience; the environment was pristine, with absolute solitude, starry skies and chilly temperatures during the nite.  The six of us, upon arrival on a given Saturday, took off for a 10 mile hike through the valleys surrounding Bert’s camp.  Any fears of getting lost soon dissipated as the barren landscape did not allow for veering off the path (or lack thereof).  Returning back to the camp, it was time to kick our shoes and socks off to kick back for a glass of well deserved wine.  Little did we know, Bessie the resident cow fully expected such, and proceeded to devour Trish’ stinky socks left outside our ger tent.  The rest of the weekend was filled with good food, a 3-hour gorgeous horse trek (see the emerging trend of horse riding, yet no mastery), and good times with friends.

Other than the occasional weekend trips, we have had the opportunity to do some hiking even on the outskirts of town.  No doubt the weekly UB hiking club will be an interesting group for Trish and I.  Lastly, Trish and I have attempted to formulate a social scene in Ulaanbaatar.  We have hosted an array of enjoyable evenings, including hosting colleague Demir’s 65th birthday, where 10 of us tossed back Texas chili and good wines, Thai noodle nites with new friends, and the inevitable upcoming Canadian Thanksgiving (1 week delayed).  All in all, life continues to treat us well. 

I hope as well that life continues to treat each and every one of you well. 


Catch ya soon.

  
Ulan Bator hotels Slideshow

Comments

Serdar on Oct 11, 2011 at 06:55AM

Kyle,
Nice pictures. Golden Fall.

Serdar on Oct 11, 2011 at 07:03AM

Hey Kyle,
There are 4 pretty ladies around you in Gang in Tereli. You are happy MAAAAAN!

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