Torres Del Pain(e) - Fire, mud, sweat and blood
Trip Start
Mar 06, 2009
1
11
20
Trip End
Mar 06, 2010
Where I stayed
Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile
Thursday, April 2, 2009
1. "If you do it, I hope to see you back here alive"
2. "The pass is closed, don't do the Grande, no rangers or facilities"
3. "3 days ago my friend trekked for 4 hours in 60 cm deep snow"
Now, what we should have known / read before is...
1 "The Grande Circuit - This trek is the longest, with varying grades of difficulty, and passes through the wonderland of craggy, granite peaks, snow clad mountains, glacier-fed lakes, waterfalls and rivers, pampas and thick Magellanic forests. "
2. "Trekkers and backpackers should have experience with rough country, and climbers must have experience with ice and snow climbing. Be prepared for bad weather to interrupt your itinerary. Flexible planning is necessary."
3. "The weather in Torres del Paine park is changeable but the wind is a constant. Rain, sleet and snow can follow a day of bright sunshine in spring or early summer. Even in summer, there are strong winds (up to 80 km/hr) and rainfalls."
We thought we would be on a heavily tourist beaten track with kiosks, viewing platforms, pleasant walks and a bit of camping. We thought it would be a walk in the park.
We were actually about to embark on one of the most famous trekking circuits in world. Trekkers around the globe wet their lips at an opportunity to tackle this beast yet here we were, in our trackies (no waterproofs, gaiters or such like) unbeknownst.
Day 1 (Torres to Seron): The excitement of getting in touch with nature and spending the night in a tent outdoors got us through the first day's 5 hour trek quite easily. Like lambs to the slaughter we moved beyond the point of no return. Our first night the stats started to increase:
Lost Items: 1 (Torch - kinda important)
Mosquito Bite: 15 (Face and rear)
Warnings: 2 (fellow trekkers suggesting we return as we were novice and out of our hiking depth)
Day 2 (Seron to Dickson): After our first night on the freezing floor (which included a rat attack) we weighed up the risks and in a moment of complete bravery (stupidity) we asked ourselves the frank question - "How hard could it be?". We started late at 11am packing our gear up in the rain to continue on to the next site. Without a navigational map and only the park entrance guide to a resource, what we assumed to be a 6 hour 19km walk over flat land turned into a 8 hour 25 km hike over gusty mountains, muddy fields and a stinky swamp. Our already blistered feet and lack of direction led us off the path and into 30 minute detour through a sticky swamp which soaked our (non waterproof) clothes, socks and shoes and dampened our already drowning spirits. Night was about to fall, we were in a lot of pain and 2 hours over schedule. We had to decide to camp in the wilderness or try to push on and find the campsite where we could regroup in shelter. Like Utopia, the camp finally appeared, glistening like a scene out of the smurfs. We ran greedily toward the cute little huts which were siituated in a wind tunnel to set up our wet tent. As we were setting up, racing against the remaining daylight a few more fellow trekkers came out of the woodwork, to be specific - the wooden hut, offering us a mattress to rest on for the night, room to dry our stuff and a roaring fire.. happy days.
Day 3 (Dickson to Los Perros): Despite the traumatic 2nd day we were now too far gone to turn back, besides with our tent dry, wounds bandaged and words of optimism of passersby our confidence grew (once again).. The 9km (4 hour) day was mainly through dense forest (hobbit land), captivating to be in for the first couple hours. We even relaxed so much to enjoy a nice cup of tea by the river side with our lunch... Once again, naivety had the last laugh as we being the first to leave (out of 3 groups), we were now over taken and sitting last with what we thought was only 1 hour to go turned into a few more, so a total of 6.5 hours. Our spirits, once again, were crushed and likewise were our quad and calf muscles. We made it to Los Perros, the last night before the famous "John Gardner" pass (climb to 1250 metres) and given that we were on average 1-2 hours slower on every section so far we were concerned. But just like the night before we were given another lifeline and reassurance when our swifty fellow pro hikers informed us that they too lagged on this leg. Whoo-hoo we were not alone! Maybe we can make the pass with no previous experience whatsoever? This was one of most nervous nights sleep we can remember... (with damp gear, thanks to one of us secretly spilling water in the tent..)
Day 4 (Los Perros to Paso): Enjoyment has commenced, gone are the fears only to be replaced by adrenalin and amazing views of mountain peaks, glaciers and winding valleys in autumn colours. There is enough beauty to hurt your eyes as much as the hike hurts your feet. We mounted the beast with gusto even though we were overtaken within the first 30 minutes of the climb. We gave ourselves ten hours to finish, this section is graded "difficult" with a professional time of 6 hours so we thought 4 hours extra was ample leeway. Reaching the summit in 4 hours was an unforgettable experience and finally we felt we had achieved something, we were on the journey and it was special. After a few high fives and a bit of yellow snow writing we continued down the steep side of the mountain. Now - after climbing up a mountain and reaching the top, surely that is enough. The chopper should come with champagne, cheese and a blanket waiting in the cockpit with handshakes, kisses and applause but no. Puma prints, chillblains and a slippery surface was all that greeted us on the other side. We still had a long way to go down a tricky, steep, knee wrenching descent. 2 hours later we were setting up camp, fire on the go and looking forward to some rest.
Day 5 (Paso - Los Guardas - Grey - Paine Grande): "F*** another cold, rainy, sleepless night, how much can i pay to be air lifted out of here?!" We had to get out of this park. The highs of making the pass were behind us and we were left with only the sad fact that we were cold, wet, sore and a long walk(s) from home. The only shining light was that we would be traveling downhill on the popular and open "W" circuit. This actually proved to be the most enjoyable day of them all. Our goal to make at least one section within the suggestion time limit was reached on the first attempt and superceeded by halving the suggested time on the next section. With two down, one to go and 3.5 hours hours of daylight between us and a warmish shower, roof and possibly a bed we decided to push on and do the whole western side of the course (21km, and a few climbs) in a day. This tested us further as we again found ourselves racing against the clock. Our walk changed to a brisk jog trying to avoid camping in the vicious winds. We reached Paine Grande only a few minutes before sundown, paid for a dorm room and a cooked meal with dessert for dinner - could it have possibly been heaven?! We showered straight away, the receptionist gave us free towels, we must have smelt so bad, and had fingernails to rival the strayest hobo. We slept like angels for the first time after 5 days, 75 kms and sub zero temperatures in a warm toasty room... Bliss.
Oh, and we forgot to mention we each were carrying approx 20kgs on our backs. Standard for any multiple day hike apparently.
Final stats:
Number of falls:
Kim - 6 (mostly on flat ground)
Craig - 4 (mostly in snow)
Number of injuries
Kim - 7 blisters, all on feet and a few bruises
Craig - 1 blister, hips and damaged knee. Also a damaged walking shoe from holding it too close to the fire
Number of songs rehashed and sang at top volume: 7,000,000,000
Number of teary sessions cried:
Kim - 3 (of pain, frustration and general tantrums)
Craig - 2 (of please don't let me die here and not with the clumsiest girl in the world)
Comments
Nuts in chile
you guys are both nuts!!!
the photos are great though.
keep traveling safe and keep taking notes. some travel agancy may buy your travel adventures.