Buffeted & Baked (at least the nights are cool)
Trip Start
Oct 02, 2010
1
11
27
Trip End
Nov 06, 2010
Where I stayed
Hotel vieux Boabab
Mahajanga, Madagascar
Friday, October 15, 2010
We set off from Tana early on the 12th after another relaxing day in and around Tana-Jacaranda. Went with the Trans-Post option, although be careful what you pay for here, nothing is as it seems. Rather than a quaint view of their postal service, with a certain romance and nostalgia, we were greeted by a rather large group of people and baggage, all attempting to embark on a rather small mini-bus. It seems that Trans-Post have steped into the void that is Madagascan public transport and begun to offer the only alternative to a Taxi-Brousse or a plane. Alternative? Didn't really see the difference between the Trans-Post vehicle and a Taxi-Brousse, although to be fair there were less of us on the vehicle, and our luggage was actually strapped on top. Note: when taking the Trans-Post, they mean 20kg per person (they actually weigh it) and we paid 7,500 extra Ariary each for our oversized bags. This is not an issue as it comes to around $7.50 AUD for both, but is still a nasty shock when budgeting.
So, there we were, two six foot-odd Australians, a massive Sth African, two reasonably sized Frenchies, a lovely Moroccan, nine Malagasy not including the driver and enough baggage to start a mid-sized UN mission. Did I mention that it was hot? 600km doesn't sound like much to us but the roads here (even the "highway") are special to say the least, and the towns difficult to negotiate. No leg room and few stops put everyone in varying states during the trip. Ten hours, and now the equal third on my list of worst bus rides. And that's competing with the infamous (I think I've mentioned it to you all) 13.5 hour sleeper bus in Vietnam, the hairy 8.5 hour ride in Nepal and the agonising detour (complete with regular throwing up from one poor girl) in Hanoi during the floods. Still I'll stop whingeing and mention the lovely, simple chicken and rice lunch at a roadside stop, the amazing (and unphotographed) high plains in the centre of the country, barren, brown but with an eerily familiar charm to Aussies. Helped by the Eucalyptus and frquent roadside bushfires (mostly controlled) it actually felt like home, except for the constant ache of tired, cramped legs. Mahajunga, despite the darkness, was a welcome relief, and we were met by Jean-Claude (Chantal's brother) who ensured we waited for a bare minimum before arriving at our hotel. Shower, s@$t and beer.
Mahajunga is a little strange. Don't get me wrong, it's pretty in places, full of nightlife and a never ending supply of Pousse-Pousse (the local version of a rickshaw). What's strange, or perhaps not when you consider the heat, is the complete shutdown in the middle of the day, and the haphazard approach to town-planning that leaves you wondering if it's a restaurant, hotel, public building or private house. The people here also have a fairly casual and independant approach to signage, roads and businesses. They're there, you just have to look. The sea, like so many other places, makes the heat bearable. We swam in the Mozambique Channel, which is very salty, though a great way to cool down. Our first Baobab's are here too, although I'm told they are a different species to the ones further south. The bars here are cheap, and it is almost mandatory to consume water in equal quantities to your beer. To illustrate the prices and quality I will mention lunch today: delicious Brochettes (skewered kebab) of frog and zebu barbequed with vegetables and two rum punches from the Bel Air, only 6600 Ariary ($4.00 AUD).
On to plans. We've changed again. The Taxi-Brousse to Nosy Be takes nearly 20 hours. No way, no how, not again. That's at least 3 ten hour days (note I've allowed for stuff ups). Maybe after the Dhow trip in Nosy Be, but not before. So we've booked the cheapest direct flights from Mahajunga to Nosy Be for Thursday. This gives us some more beach time, some national park time and relaxation. We've decided to move from where we are (it's downtown) to a place near the smaller beach (unbelieveably cheaper and in bungalow style accomodations with mod con's). So it's a diet of relaxation and acclimatisation. Sorry this has taken me so long, blah, blah, but we're both slowing down a litle. If anything I've said sounds negative I'll explain it this way. The Malagasy have an expression, Mura Mura (sorry for speling) which translates as Slowly Slowly. Might be time to try taking their advice. Blog soon (I'll be a good little writer), Khaz and Rhiannon.
Comments
Hello :)
Let me share my opinion :) that is Very, very nice and informative page with very nice pictures :) Someday I wish to visit Madagaskar :)
Regards
Angel
www.exalism.com
We can wait as long as it takes, worth the wait to hear from you, perhaps we should have cut you off at the knees before you left. This story well deserves my first use of the abb. LOL but I don't suppose it felt funny in the bus. Don't worry you'll get used to the heat, we're back in winter temps.