Nad jeziorem 3016 m npm / On the lake 3016 m asl
Trip Start
Jul 02, 2010
1
14
52
Trip End
Sep 27, 2010
Song-Kol, Naryn, Kyrgyzstan
Monday, July 19, 2010
Docieramy do Balikchy, niedlugo po nas dziewczyny. Tomek krazy po bazarze i znajduje swoje wymarzone szaszlyki. Przyjezdza Monika z Karolina, siadamy w Aszkanie na zamawiamy szaszlyki. I dalej w droge, dzisiaj chcemy dotrzec nad Song_Kul, czy to sie nam uda?
Ponownie sie rozdzielamy, z trudem wydostajemy sie z miasta, ale potem juz calkiem gladko - stop do Orto-Tokoy, potem do Kochkoru i dalej gruzawikiem kolejne kilpometry gdzies na placbudowy, tu czestuja nas kymysem. Chwile tu stoimy i nareszcie przejezdza kolejny samochod, jedziemy kilka km do Sari-Bulak, skad zaledwie 4 km na droge na Song-Kul. Lapiemy kolejnego stopa, ktory podrzuca nas te 4 km na droge nad jezioro, tam juz czekaja na nas dziewczyny. Do wioski Keng-Suu jeszcze 8 km, a do jeziora ponad 50... Droga gruntowa, samochodow jak na lekarstwo. Zastanawiamy sie co dalej, jest juz pozne popoludnie, nie mamy jedzenia, wiec musimy dotrzec do wioski - pewnie pieszo. Ale ledfwie ruszylismy, a podjezdza marszrutka - zabiera nas nad jezioro za 1000 som. Jestesmy niepocieszeni, ale bedziemy nad Song-Kul juz dzisiaj! Jak sie okazuje, jedziemy wynajeta marszrutka do jurt nad polnocnym brzegu jeziora, jak sie pozniej dowiadujemy sa to jurty typowo turystyczne... Maja tu nawet menu, zamawiamy ryby z dodatkami i rozbijamy namioty niedaleko jurt.
20.07.2010 r.
Na sniadanie besh-barmack, Tomek zamawia, my sie zadawalamy lepioszkami z konfitura truskawkowa, maslem czy smietana.
A po sniadaniu pytamy o konie. Bedac nad Song-Kul obowiazkowo nalezy pojezdzic konno, jednak tylko ja z Monika sie na to decydujemy. Wsiadam na konia i czuje sie taka wolna i szczesliwa, na poczatek troche stepu, potem klusowania, no i galop! Jezdzilam tak dawno konno, ale chyba wszystkiego nie zapomnialam. Jezdzimy prawie 2 godziny, ale wlasciciel jurty byl tak pijany, ze nie widzial tej drobnej roznicy i placimy mu tylko za godzine jazdy.
Kupujemy w jurcie jeszcze lepioszki i konfiture truskawkowa i ruszamy do wioski Kyzart przez przelecz Jalaa-Karagay - 3300 m npm.
Po ok 2 godz wedrowki docieramy na przelecz, Tomek proponuje tu zanocowac, Monice ten pomysl takze sie podoba, ja z Karolina wolalybysmy zejsc troche nizej, ale po krotkiej dyskusji robijamy sie na przeleczy. Gotujemy chinole, ktore kupilismy chyba jeszcze w Mikhalyowce, gramy w karty. Pada i wieje.
21.07.2010 r.
Poranek pochmurny i widoki praktycznie zadne. Do Kyzart mamy okolo 3 godz.
Jemy lepioszki z dzemem. Tomek grzeje wode na herbate - ale wlasnie skonczyla sie benzyna, wiec lepioszki popijamy resztkami wody.
Idziemy. Droga sie ciagnie w dol do doliny, a pozniej wzdluz rzeki, ktora niepotrzebnie przekraczamy, w dodatku Monika probujac przerzucic treki na drugi brzeg, jeden z butow laduje w rzece, szybka akcja ratunkowa treka - Monika wbiega do rzeki i rozrywa spodnie, ale but uratowany ;). Rzeke musimy przekroczyc jeszcze raz - tym razem bez dodatkowych atrakcji.
Droga sie ciagnie i ciagnie, a wioski nie widac. Jemy resztki dzemu, wedrujemy juz ponad 3 godziny a wioski nie widac. Dolaczaja do nas Kirgizi na koniach. Rozmawiamy, o wszystki i o niczym - jada na bazar sprzedac barana i kymys, opowiadaja nam o swoich rodzinach, dzieciach, dumie z narodzin syna, a takze pytaja nas o zarobki w Polsce i jak u nas wyglada zycie.
Dziewczyny zostaja w tyle, czekamy na nie i zegnamy sie z Kirgizami. Przed nami jeszcze kawal drogi.
Nareszcie z oddali widac pierwsze domy. Na koniec udaje nam sie zlapac stopa do wioski, okazuje sie ze to jeszcze kilka km. Pierwsze kroki kierujemy do jedynego sklepu, gdzie zaopatrujemy sie w kukurydze, pomidory i ogorki konserwowe. Przed sklepem kroimy warzywa na salatke, a sprzedawczyni zaprasza nas do srodka, do jakiegos starego magazynu meblowego, gdzie przy stole mozemy dokonczyc krojenie i zjesc spokojnie kolacje. Po posilku dostaje na urodziny worek cukierkow czekoladowych i zostaje mi odspiewane 100 lat. Dziekuje.
Koniec tego dobrego. Powoli zapada zmierzch, a my jeszcze chcemy zlapac stopa do Chayek. Zaczyna lac. Znajdujemy schronienie w opuszczonym budynku. Deszcz szybko przechodzi, stajemy na drodze. Poniewaz jest juz dosc pozno, dziewczyny klapia pierwsze stopa, ruch praktycznie zaden, ale przejezdzajacy samochod zabiera dziewczyny do Chayek. Teraz juz zostalismy na drodze z Tomkiem wypatrujac juz miejsca na rozbicie namiotu i oganiajac sie od chmary meszek i... wow, zatrzymuje sie autko terenowe - rodzice plus dwoje dzieciakow. Jada nie tylko do Chayek, ale duzo dalej, bo az do Toktogul (ok 200 km)! Pytamy czy mozemy z nimi jechac, zgadzaja sie bez problemu. Droga jest wyboista, gruntowa, ale kierowca jedzie stosunkowo szybko popijaca piwo...
Przejezdzajac przez Chayek mijamy dziewczyny - probuja lapac stopa dalej.
"Nasza" rodzinka bardzo sympatyczna, kierowca jest policjantem, synowie maja po 6 lat i 6-miesiecy. Przed polnoca dojezdzamy, prosimy, zeby nas wysadzili przed miastem, bo bedziemy spac w namiocie, znajduje nam miejscowke, dziekujemy mu serdecznie i sie zegnamy. Padamy ze zmeczenia po kilku godzinach wedrowki i kolejnych kilku godz jazdy samochodem.
Jeszcze dostajemy od dziewczyn smsa, ze zostaly "zaadoptowane" przez kirgijska rodzine.
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We got up extremely late, we hit the road after 10 p.m., after 15minutes of waiting and eating unripe apricots we were in the car on our way to Balikchi, girls started earlier and also would get to Balikchi soon.
We get to Balikchi, moments after us girls are there. Tomek was circling the market in search for his shashliks. Together with Monika and Karolina we sat in Ashkan and ordered shashliks. Time to get on the road, we wanted to reach Song-Kul, would we make it?
We split again, with difficulty we left the city, then smoothly hitch-hiked to Orto-Tokoy, then to Kochkoru, then with a truck on a building site where we were offered kymys. We waited there for some time, finally next ride, we rode few kilometer to Sari-Bulak, from there it was only 4 km to the road leading to Song-Kul. We caught next ride and drove those 4 km to the road leading to the lake, girls were already there. To Keng-Suu village it’s 8 km, to the lake over 50… Dirt road, with traffic close to none. We were discussing what to do next, it was late afternoon, we were without food, so we had to get to the village – probably on foot. We barely started our hike and a minibus showed up, they can take us to the lake for 1000soms. We’re not too happy about that, but we’d be over Song-Kul today! It turned out that the minibus is a rented one heading to jurts over northern side of the lake, later we learned that those jurts were typical touristic jurts. They even had menu, we ordered fish with side dishes, after that we set our tent close to the jurt.
20.07.2010
For breakfast – Tomek ordered besh-barmack, we setteled for lepioszki with strawberry marmalade, butter or cream. After the breakfast we asked about horses. While over the Song-Kul you have to ride on a horse, only me and Monika were up to it. I got on the horse and felt immense freedom and happiness, first step, then trot and finally gallop! I rode so long ago, it looked like I didn’t forget everything. We rode for almost two hours, the owner was so drunk that he didn’t notice time passage and we paid for just one hour.
In the jurt we bought lepioszki and strawberry marmalade, then we move out to Kyzart village through Jalaa-Kargay – 3300 m a.s.l.
After 2 hours of hike we reached the pass, Tomek proposed to camp here, Monika liked the idea, me and Karolina would preferred descending a bit lower, in the end we settle for this place. We cooked chinole – the one bought in Mihalyovka, and played cards. It’s windy and rainy.
21.07.2010
Cloudy morning, practically viewless. We had about 3 hours to Kyzart. We ate lepioszki with marmalade, Tomek was trying to boil water for tea but gasoline run out, so lepioszki were wash down with water. We march out. The trail goes down the valley, then by the river, which we unnecessarily crossed, in addition Monika while trying to cross the river threw her trekking shoes over the river, one of them landed in the water, quick rescue action – Monika leaped into the river, ripped trousers but saved the shoe ;). We had to cross the river again, this time uneventfully.
The trail went on and on, and the village was nowhere to be seen. We finished marmalade, we already trekked for over 3 hours and we still didn’t reach the village. On the way we’re joined by Kirghiz riders. We talked about everything and nothing, they were going to the market to sell a ram and kymys, they told us about their families, children, of being proud of a newborn son, they also asked about salaries and lifestyle in Poland.
Girls stayed behind, we said goodbyes to Kirghiz riders and waited for them. We still have a long trek ahead of us. Finally first buildings got into our sight. We even get to catch a ride to the village, it was still few kilometers away. We direct our first steps to the only grocery store – we bought corn, tomatoes and pickles. In front of the store we started to cut our veggies for the salad, the shop owner invited us in to some old furniture warehouse, where by the table we can finish and eat our salad. After the meal I received a bag of chocolate candies for my birthday, then the Happy Birthday song. Thank you.
Ok, time to get going. It’s slowly getting dark and we were supposed to hitch-hike to Chayek. It started to rain. We’ve found some shelter in an abandoned building. Rain stopped, so we hit the road. It was already late, we let the girls to have precedence, almost no traffic. Passing car took girls to Chayek. Now me and Tomek were left on the road, we slowly started to look for a spot to camp out and at the same time to ward off swarm of black flies, then… wow, an ORV stopped. Parents plus two kids. They’re not only going to Chayek, but much further, to Toktogul (about 200 km)! We asked if we can go with them, they had agreed instantly. The road was an uneven dirt road, and the driver was driving fairly fast while sipping a beer… While passing Chayek we’ve seen the girls – still trying to hitch-hike. “Our” family was very nice, diver was a policeman, sons were 6-months and 6-years old. Before midnight we reach our destination, we asked to drop us off before the city, so we can set our tent. After giving our thanks we said goodbyes. We were dead tired after hours of trekking and hours spent in a car.
Then we received a text from girls that they’ve been “adopted” by a kirghizian family.
