Frontier Fiji, Island of Gau

Trip Start Jan 05, 2007
1
Trip End Mar 14, 2007


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Flag of Fiji  ,
Saturday, March 17, 2007

I arrived a day earlier that the group flying out of London, which was just as well as the humidity knocked me for six!  I met the others at the airport in Nadi & we travelled across the country to Suva.  Fortunately the Military Coup had finished the previous day - there were still checkpoints with Police & Soldiers everywhere, but they all shouted Bula (hello) & waved alot!  One night in Suva & a chance to do Health & Safety & Medical tests & we were on our way to the Island of Gau.  It was a rough crossing & lots of people were casualties of sunburn & sea sickness.

We arrived at our new home Naviavia Beach - 5 Staff, 2 Conservation Apprentices (unpaid interns) & 25 Research Assistants (RAs).  There was a race for the bures - traditional palm thatched huts.  Here we were to run the gauntlet with crabs, mice, moths & rats who all wanted to be inside our mosquito net havens, not trapped outside them.  We slept on the floor with a few people having the luxury of inflatable mattresses, but the rest of us were on mats or thermarests - in fact the whole expedition should have been sponsored by thermarest & lifeventure.  'Man Towers' was soon created - a hammock heaven & I had annex status there.  My hammock was one of the best things I took, as the camp only had 2 chairs & it was great to get out of the sand & look out to sea.  The beach was beautiful & it was ours, the nearest village was a boat ride away.  Most of the time the 3 phones on the island weren't working & we resorted to climbing through the jungle up a hill to get a mobile signal, until we were banned as it was too dangerous. 

Conservation training involved dive training for those not qualified & then we had to learn 120 species of fish, 26 families of coral & numerous algae & invertebrates, in addition to the survey techniques called Baseline protocol to measure all these things.  We put out 4-8 baseline teams of 4 each day until we started to have supply issues.  The supply boat was weeks late & it got to the point there there was not any fuel on the island, so we couldn't use the boats to go anywhere.  There were lots of challenges - we had compressor issues which curtailed our diving, so there were snorkel baselines too.  We also had a few injuries on camp - a dislocated shoulder & one of the guys was knocked out playing 'stuck in the mud' on the beach, which neccessitated a medivac back to Suva.  The supply issues got so bad that we didn't have enough food.  The local village agreed to take us in & we walked two & a half hours around the coast at low tide where we were taken in one RA per family.  Not only did these people take us into their homes, but they took us into their hearts too & they became our family.  We had a big meke (music & dance party) on our last night on camp & our Nanas (Moms) turned up with food for our journey & there were lots of emotional speeches.

We did collect lots of scientific data which should help monitor the situation on the coral reefs.  We also did some awesome diving, of which Nigali passage out at the Barrier Reef was the best dive (out of the 178 I have ever done!).

I am now revelling in the comparative luxury of fresh water showers & a proper bed & food with vitamins at a Backpackers called Tsulu at Pacific Harbour before heading off to the Yassawa Islands for a few days.
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Comments

nahrobson
nahrobson on

Sounds better than here!!
Kate, very jealous. I half half the deal here in Afghanistan - I have a lot of sand but the tide seems to have gone out a lot further than where you are! Enjoy fish counting. I will wait for the tide to come in here for a bit!!

Nick

jakkic
jakkic on

Greetings from MSH!
Hi Kate

Sounds like heaven and hell at the same time - I'm madly jealous! Don't envy you your bedmates though!

son1
son1 on

welcome back to the real world
Kate
sounds like a character building time! It must have been a fabulous detox, can't wait to see the pics and the tan!
Sonia

nicki001
nicki001 on

Amazed from Somerset
Well done! Glad you survived all the bugs and you made new friends.

have a rest! Hope the tan is good and the tum rock solid after all that !
Nickixx

kacaunigau
kacaunigau on

hi
Hi Kate. I am a student of the University of the South Pacific here in Suva. Hope you enjoyed your stay in Gau, but sorry for the bugs and 'mossies'. Anyway, I am from the village of Nawaikama.

Megan on

You dont know me, but i googled gau and this came up. I was on naviavia with frontier from July 2008- October 2008. Also had an amazing time. Great looking at your pictures of the camp, seeing how things had changed. We also got the tropical rainstorm attack. Lasted for maybe 5 hours and everyone/everything was drenched after. Do you miss it sometimes? have you been back since? Nice to meet you. Megan

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