Tranquility before the carnage!

Trip Start Jun 27, 2009
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Trip End Jun 26, 2010


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Where I stayed
Not sure of the pousada's name

Flag of Brazil  , Bahia,
Saturday, February 6, 2010



My original plan was to spend a few days in Lencois which is about a 6 hour bus ride west of Salvador and is next to some amazing national parks with fantastic trekking around some amazing waterfalls and forests, but after finding out about a tranquil island with not many people and beautiful beaches I quickly changed my plans as it would also mean I could get back to Salvador a few days earlier to explore it a bit before carnival. So my plan to get to Boipeba was to get to the ferry terminal in Salvador and then the ferry across to Bom Despacho and then a bus to Valenca before getting another boat to Boipeba. I arrived in Salvador on my flight at about 4.30pm which was a good time, but because the executive mini-buses were so infrequent and due to traffic it took me over 3 hours to get into central Salvador and the ferry terminal, by which time I could only get the 8pm ferry across to Bom Despacho which was after the last bus had left for Valenca. As I was not going to be ripped off by taxi drivers who hounded me as I left the ferry terminal quite happily informing me I'd have to take a taxi, I ignored them all and walked on into Bom Despacho to try and find a hotel or pousada. This became interesting as I was directed to walk through even more dodgier parts of town but eventually found a pousada.

I left early the next day and caught a bus to Valenca and then a ferry onto Boipeba. Boipeba is very tranquil and not touristy at all, apart from a few Brazilians and even fewer foreigners. I think even at peak periods the locals still slightly out number the tourists, in addition the island itself is quite beautiful and is surrounded by gorgeous beaches. That afternoon I had a wander round the beaches and headlands after first finding a pousada. Then later in the evening went and had some pizza for dinner, and I have to say it was the best pizza I had had since leaving London. Afterwards I went to the main Praca and bumped into my mate Andy from Rio who was now travelling with a Spanish girl called Laura and we were shortly joined by a Belgium girl named Heidi and a Norwegian girl named Anna whom Laura had met that afternoon in a shop. We had several drinks and the girls danced with some of the sleazy local guys, but after arranging to meet up the next day I called it a night and went to bed.

The next day we met at the beach and went for a long walk around the island. It was quite a beautiful place and each beach we came to was different but beautiful in its own way. Eventually we came back and ended up at a beach bar and had some beers and food. That night we met up and went for moqueca (my first time) which is an local dish and consists of seafood cooked with palm oil and vegetables. It was absolutely delicious and something I'm looking forward to trying to cook when I get home. As it was sunday night there was not much else on but we hanged around in the praca and had a few drinks.

The next day Andy and Laura were off, but I met Anna and Heidi again at the beach and we had a pretty cruisy day sunning ourselves and going for swims. I then met them again that night for another moqueca and finished off with a few drinks. The next day I was again up before dawn to get back to Salvador.
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