The Retreat

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  Lanquìn, Guatemala
Wednesday, June 7, 2006

The Spanish term "El Retiro" translates to "The Retreat." It´s also the title of an aptly named backpacker hostel near the village of Lanqùin, a charming town sitting in the steep slopes of the central highlands. Lanquìn, reachable only via long, bumpy dirt road, is remote but well worth the effort. The lush highland jungle enjoys fair temperatures with plenty of rain but manageable humidity (thanks to the elevation, approximately 3,500 ft). The buildings of this town are packed tightly along winding roads that twist through hills and valleys of dramatically varied elevations.

Many trekkers who find their way to Lanquìn´s El Retiro reportedly find it hard to leave. Here`s why: this little paradise sits in a verdant valley cut by a fast-flowing river. The brook is crystalinne blue, an odd contrast to the sky, which is always grey, and the deep green of jungle-covered hills. Steep valley walls thrust upward, providing awesome views from the checkerboard of cabañas and private bungalows peppered along the river bank. El Retiro`s restaurant sits square on the water and serves as the central social area. By day, guests (myself included) waste the time, reading and hammock swinging to a falling-rain and flowing-river soundtrack. By night, dinner is enjoyed "family style" (insanely tasty buffet) while the party rolls till 1AM to a less natural soundtrack: a surprisingly good mix of folk, reggae and underground hip hop.

El Retiro is indeed a draw of its own, but it certainly gets some help from nearby natural attractions. The Grutas de Lanquìn, a huge limestone cave network, is another gift from Time and Water, however these caverns can be explored without a guide which adds a twist of danger and excitement. Equally if not more impressive is Semuc Champey, a series of shining pools resting on a bed of limestone wedged between two massive valley walls. See the attached pics for shots of the pools (which were perfect for a refreshing swim) plus a clip of the unlikely but effective bus that hauled us there.

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02 The Pools	03 That's the Bus?	04 El Mirador	05 What's the Deal!?

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