Chiang Mai and A Slice of Pai
Trip Start
Nov 16, 2005
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24
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Trip End
Jun 04, 2007
Chiang Mai, Thailand
Saturday, May 27, 2006
After another unassuming flight with our old mates Laos Airlines we arrived safely back onto Thai soil from Laos and into the Northern Provence of Chiang Mai.
Chiang Mai - 'The Rose of the North' - is Thailand's second largest city with 200,000 people residing in the city proper. Despite being 1000ft above sea level it's just as hot as Bangkok. But that's all the comparisons we could find. The truth is Thailand's two largest cities couldn't be anymore different. A lot less populated and polluted, Chiang Mai has a striking mountain backdrop, over 300 temples and a quaint historical aura. It's also a modern, friendly, internationally-flavoured city but lacks the buzz a genuine big city like Bangkok provides. But this is by no means a criticism, during our 3 weeks we spent in the north, Chiang Mai was able to provide us with some great memories, new friends and some overdue home comforts.
Our first week back in Thailand was spent propping up Chiang Mai's popular Ladyboy (those he/she's play a damn good game of Connect 4) bars with our new friends Gav and Jody, whom we met at the airport in Luang Prabang. This was pretty much the pattern until Karen and I enrolled ourselves onto a Thai cooking and traditional Thai massage course. Those of you that know us will guess that I chose to advance my already exceptional culinary skills while K roughed up the local masseurs with her Vulcan grip (K says thanks Mum & Dad for this as her b'day pressie).
Following our courses, we'd arranged to meet up with Jordan and Lindy (a great couple we met in Vietnam from Seattle), who have managed to restore all faith in our American friends across the pond. It was with them we travelled 4 hours north to Pai, a small, lively town where the dramatic mountains surrounding the town stand guard over the valley and meandering river. Pai means "go" in Thai, which is interesting because nobody seems to go anywhere once they get here. It's overrun with westerners who get caught up in the magic and forget to go home. Which is a bit of shame for everyone else discovering this beautiful Thai village for the first time. But the treks are first class, booze is cheap, vibes are good, and half the world is represented.
Our trek saw us bushwhack our way through thick jungle, up one hill, down another, for 2 days near the Burmese border. Most of the Thais who live around Pai descend from one of the nearby hill-tribe villages. If you hike in any direction, you won't go far before you run into one of these quaint little places. The Opium Trade from the Golden Triangle extends all the way down here. Almost every village has seen substantial financial benefits at some point. In fact, villagers attribute most major improvements to opium money. The government is beginning to crack down. The resurgent push to address the drug problem in the country puts these villages in the cross hairs - Poppy fields burned, people arrested, sometimes worse. There is growing concern as to their futures without this crop. The battle rages on.
Pai is undoubtedly Thailand's premier location to trek, listen to live Jazz and do absolutely bugger all. Between the four of us, we managed to tick the boxes in all categories.
And so it went on, in a galaxy far far away, sipping Sang Som (Thai Whisky) and coke - listening to jazz at the Beebop Bar - days of hiking through the Jungle - one of The Curry Pot's Masaman curries - and you're caught in the Matrix too. Another set of victims who fell in love and just didn't want to leave.
Then a Jedi will you be..........
Comments
Missing presumed fed
Hi J&K - Great to hear some words & see some pics of you guys for the 1st time in ages - it's no wonder that you havn't had time to write John what with all that amazing food to prepare. You used to make do with a packet of Doritos back home. Hot news - I'm leaving the RST for the RSCE. Just gotta keep working in teams with acronyms! Keep travelling, eating well & blogging.
PT