Soaring with the condors

Trip Start Oct 06, 2010
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Trip End Jul 30, 2011


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Where I stayed
Picola Daniela
What I did
Arequipa, the convent, Colca Canyon

Flag of Peru  , Arequipa,
Tuesday, June 21, 2011

From Puno we took a long, hot, over-priced bus to Arequipa. Arriving at the bus terminal we hoped in a taxi and told him which hostel we wanted to visited, which was greeted with a surprised "why?" We explained that it was cheap, to which he asked our budget, and then took us to an even cheaper option right behind the convent in the city center. Thank you mystery cab driver! Our location was spectacular, even if the bed wasn't quite as wonderful. We wasted no time in exploring the lovely city, and I’m not ashamed to admit that the best part of our arrival was the maracuya mojito that accompanied my dinner at Istanbul Café. The next day we explored the convent, rushing through a bit but still leaving enough time to take plenty of pictures. It’s an incredible structure occupying entire city blocks, and part of it remains a functioning convent. Beautiful colors, fantastic written explanations, art that takes your breath away and beautiful landscaping and plants throughout. We climbed up to the top of the church for a view of the convent and city surrounding it, saw where the nuns had bathed, got a look at the pots that were used to do laundry (far more elaborate than it sounds)and scampered around looking at old living quarters and the town’s first “public school.” We also mistakenly took a city tour that wasn’t good at all. The good: we saw a lot of the outlying areas; the bad is that we didn’t get any of the history of this lovely city, which is what we were after.(Josh:On one of the stops, which they wanted us to pay to get into and we didn't, there was a little girl walking around with an 8 month old adorable alpaca, asking for money for pictures. We were not up to supporting her parents sending her out to work, but the baby alpaca was interested in our bag of popcorn. He came right up to us, wrapping his long neck around my body to try to get to the bag of popcorn. We had the alpaca eating popcorn out of our hand and was talking to the little girl. Two new friends, instead of one expensive tour).    Afterwards we had a lovely and cheap dinner special at the parrillada with our new father/son friends from San Francisco, then headed home to pack up our laundry and get ready for our next day’s tour.

We booked into a 2 day tour of the Colca Canyon the next day – a trek would have been nice, but as we were trying to get to Cuzco for Inti Raymi June 24 we just didn’t have the extra day to spend. This was probably one of the best tours we had, and would have been perfect if not for the old lady travelling with her posse of grandchildren whose voice… think Fran Dresser’s mom from The Nanny (Josh's Joke). The first day we stopped at a few beautiful view points, one stop which was fairly dramatic. The American girl (20) travelling with her boyfriend and his family passed out at about 3800m walking back onto the bus. Turns out she was hypoglycemic, and that combined with the lack of oxygen from the altitude was fairly frightening. Luckily our guide Irene was quick, and after bringing the girl around using an herb mixed with rubbing alcohol, we made our way down the canyon and she was back to normal if a bit shaken up by dinner. That afternoon we went for a lovely hike, crossing a bridge to see the old food storage means of the Incas (holes dug into the side of the cliffs along the river) and the beautiful landscape in the Colca Valley. That night we stayed in Chivay, and as Josh was feeling under the weather I had dinner with a few new friends and took some delicious chicken home for Josh. This hostel, I should also mention, was also our first hot water faucet in the sink since Quito at Christmas. It’s the simplest things that bring smiles to our faces…

The next day we were up early, and stopped in Yanke to check out a church and wander through a market. Then it was off to the Condor Lookout spot, where we were treated to the view of a half dozen condors soaring overhead, some getting so close you could almost reach out and touch them (Josh: Condors are the heaviest flying birds of prey in the world and can weigh up to 30 pounds and have a wingspan of 3.2 meters (10.5 feet)). After watching them for an hour or so we headed back to Chivay for lunch, where we ate and took in the town’s festivities (they were celebrating the town’s foundation) before jumping back on the bus to head home.

Back in Arequipa we booked bus tickets to Cuzco- the road still wasn’t open (and we still don’t know why it was ever closed) so we booked a bus that went the long way, then quickly headed back to our cheap hotel to recover our bags before racing to the bus station. Next up: Cuzco and Inti Raymi!
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