Montezuma's Revenge

Trip Start Jul 10, 2013
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Trip End Aug 02, 2013


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Flag of Costa Rica  , Guanacaste,
Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Montezuma is at the bottom of a twisting gravel road that must be almost impassable in November and December in the worst of the wet season. It feels like the long term inhabitants of this place have tumbled down the long road in and have been unable to muster the gumption needed to leave. This is in part, perhaps, because the minimum wage is $2 an hour. A server at the Vaca Loca restaurant told us that many of the young people who find themselves in Montezuma can't make enough money to buy a plane ticket home.

We hiked to a waterfall on our first day in Montezuma. It was the kind of waterfall you see in alluring pictures of tropical countries - complete with fit Costa Rica men performing death- defying leaps from the top of the falls. Apparently there are signs in Spanish identifying the spots where people have died en route to the falls or jumping from the falls.

Later that day we ended up at the swimming pool for the resort that is associated with our less resorty hotel. The beach here is beautiful, but a bit rocky and the waves can be ferocious.

Yesterday we went to Tortuga Island on a speed boat - which made me realize been a pirate must have been terrifying. As we passed by the shore there were moments where it felt like of a wall of water threatened to overwhelm the boat. Fortunately the driver of the boat seemed to have a good sense of how to navigate the waves. But imagine being a pirate in rough seas?! They must have had an incredible sense of the capacity of their ships.

At the El Sano Banano hotel where we were staying breakfast was served outdoors (as is the case for most restaurants in Costa Rica). But in the case of our hotel, breakfast came complete with a pair of thieving blue jays. These two birds had a particular affection for packets of Splenda which they would steal from the table, slice open with their beak and then snort like a coke addict staving off withdrawal. They'd pull their beaks out of the packet of Splenda covered in a fine white power like a successful 1980's stock market broker. We made the mistake of offering them bits of fruit on the first few days in Montezuma, so today while I was eating my French toast one of the birds tried to make off with an entire slice!
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