Mosquitos, electrical fires and colorful markets.

Trip Start Jul 15, 2009
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Trip End Jul 15, 2010


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Where I stayed
el telephono

Flag of Guatemala  , Western Highlands,
Thursday, February 11, 2010

I think I've just swatted the last mosquito in my room, after chasing them around slapping the walls loudly with a towel. Believe it or not, and very impressively, one of the little buggers flew out through the small crack under the door! Happy to be in a hotel room tonight after yet another day riding through sun soaked mountains of truly ridiculous heat. I actually have radiating arms and hands so I guess they are a bit burnt, even through the 45+. The first thing I did, once we bargained our price of 40 Quetzals, = 3 pounds each, was have a shower. Looking at the dodgy shower head, older than the few I’d already been zapped by, I preceded to turn it on ready for the typical cold dribble. With delight I heard the heater kick in, so it was probably going to be a warm one or maybe even hot, but then the dribble turned out to be a drip. Putting my hand under the drip the water was hot as hell, too hot to get under for one drip would probably burn straight through my head. I was playing with the tap trying to get more pressure when the head had a fit and blew a load of water and steam out its side
Landside
Landside
! "Fuck, I’d better turn it off, shit, it won’t turn of" again it steamed and I called the senora for help but it was too late. The mighty dragon blew out another huff of steam and boiling water, and then it started gurgling before slowly going limp, drooping down to meet the wall. The plastic water pipe which holds it out proud from the wall was melting and I was just standing there watching and freaking out that this thing was going to blow up. Well it did go poof and now my room stinks of electrical fire. Hopefully that will help with the mosquitos.

After leaving Coban we rode from moist humid mountains into hot dry mountains. So the hot days have been doing a number on us heat wise, and the steepness of these mountains have as well. The hills are relentless! Valley after valley we have been creeping along for four days between 2150m and 600m. The first valley took us two and a bit days to get through. One part, which I’ll never forget, was making our way through the temporary road made after a huge landslide took out a large chunk of mountain. The road was basically a drop off a cliff and then back up the other side. At a 15% grade, and midday sun, I was almost sick on the climb. It’s easier to ride than push up steep parts but is physically more draining. On the other side my legs were shaking and I felt ill and completely flat with no energy left. The old road use to go across.... FLAT! Although the last four days have been continuously and drastically up or down the views have been worth it. Luckily the road isn’t too busy so we can ride on the wrong side to get under tree and bank shadows although risky you normally hear cars and trucks as they are grinding or using engine braking. Some of the drops are so long and steep that I have to stop to let my rims cool down so they don’t melt through my tyres.

Camping by a river last night we watched the locals do their thing, fishing by throwing a net out into the current and putting his small catch into his pocket before casting out again. And the locals watched us go about our washing and cooking having a good laugh.  Tomorrow we head to Chichicastenango famous for its markets but not before I ride back 15k to look for a pin that I left out of my rear cassette when changing a broken spoke, oh joy!
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