Shakhrisabz
Trip Start
Jan 15, 2005
1
9
16
Trip End
Jun 01, 2005
Tashkent, Uzbekistan
Saturday, February 19, 2005
I hope you are doing well. Today is great, it is sunny and warmer here. I guess this has been a colder than usual winter for Uzbekistan, I wonder what that means for the summer. Either way, I'm looking forward to spring here, warmer weather, green trees and more food variety. Right now I'm eating a lot of potatoes, bread, soup. The other night my family made "non osh", osh is the Uzbek national food, it consists of rice, raisens, carrots, onions, and it's pretty oily. Well non (bread) osh is noodles, potatoes, and bread all in a broth. The amounts of carbs consumed here is unbelievable, the Atkins diet would not work here.
Last weekend, Peace Corps sent all the trainees on an independent trip. I was in a group of 16 going to Shakrisabz, other trainees went to Samarkand, Bukhara, and Navoi. Before finding out that i was travelling the Shakrisabz, I had never heard of it before. I was alittle disappointed that I wasn't going to Samarkand or Bukhara, but this was a chance to see a new place that I didn't know about. As I read about Shakhrisabz I got more excited to go. It is located south of Samarkand, in the Kashka-Darya province. It is the hometown of Amir Timur, and is originally known as Kesh. From the book "Uzbekistan: The Golden Road to Samarkand," .."while Samarkand was better suited to become the jewel of Timurs empire, he paid great effort to strengthen and beautify Kesh. The inner town was surrounded by high walls and a deep moat, crossed a drawbridge. The family cementary was enlarged and, towering on a scale all its own, Amir Temir's White Palace (or Ak-Seria)took shape." Well unfortunately, the White Palace has since collapsed and all that is left is the enormous entrance. I climbed up one of the towers and got my first good workout since arriving in Uzbekistan, where I got a nice view of the surrounding town and with the mosque domes, it was like a post card. I also visited the Kok-Gumbaz Mosque (or Blue Dome), named for it's beautifully blue tiled domes. Amir Temir's grandson, Ulug Beg, built the mosque, and it celebrated its 610th year anniversary in 2004.
The day I left Shakhriszbz, the weather was clear so I could see the surrounding mountains. The mountain range is Gissaro-Alay, and I think they are the mountains leading into the Himalayans. Correct me if I'm wrong. The town of Shakhrisabz is nice but I'll return to the mountains, hopefully I'll be able to give you a trail report.
The history of the place saturates the air, but as I walk down the street, American pop music blasts from speakers in front of stores selling bootleg music. Conflict between present and past is ever present. Conflict between present and future is also evident. Donkey carts and BMWs. High heel wearing modern women with their "babushka" grandmothers. American excess slaps me in the face even though I'm half way around the world.
Thanks for all your emails. I look forward to reading about your lives.
Tinchlik (Peace)
Jenni
